Hey I need to know what the torque specs for the cam bearings are for the install. I replaced the o-rings, and just snapped off one of the bolts coming outta the head! (insert really stupid feeling here)

Anyhow, if you could get me the torque specs I would really appreciate it.

I've got to get the car back together for monday to work....

Thanks for your help.

Stefan

Camshaft bearing caps: 15 lb-ft.

Sprocket-to-cam: 37 lb-ft.

T-belt tensioner: 37 lb-ft.

HOLY S*&T! No wonder i snapped one of the studs off! I was using the method that whatever torque it takes to get it off, that is what it needs to go on.

Is there an easy way to replace the stud? and the one that I broke is the center cap - it there any way that it would be safe to drive with that one off or missing the bolt? I need to get to volvo which is a 10-15 mile drive...

thanks for your input.

sTefan

"Is there an easy way to replace the stud?"

Remove the old piece, install a new stud.

I'm assuming the stud broke off flush with the head. If you're very careful, and very lucky, you can back the remaining piece outta the head by tapping it counterclockwise using a small, sharp punch and a hammer.

Otherwise you can try drilling into it and using a screw extractor ("easy out"). These come in two flavors: One looks sorta like a tapered reverse direction drill bit. The other is stubby, tapered, has sharp helical splines and ALSO has a shoulder -- this is my favorite and works better than the first type.

You can also find a left-handed drill bit and drill into the stud. Often the drill will catch and spin the piece out.

You can probably substitute an ordinary bolt 'til you can get the right stud (I'd steal one from a old motor). Otherwise buy a metric bolt at True Value as a short-term remedy.

If you have no choice, you can probably run your car without that stud for a short time -- but I'd leave the cap on and torque the remaining nut to retain the oil flow characteristics across all the cam bearings.

Buy two studs and replace 'em both. The remaining stud might take some unnecessary flexing.

Well - thank you for your answers. I wanted to know one more thing. I tried torquing them down to about 30ft-lbs and the one broke - I was wondering if you think any of the others may have streched, and if I should just replace them all? The one that broke - it broke half way off so I can still get it with a pliers or some sort of tool.

(I have no other old motors to steal any parts off of. Maybe my honda lawnmower? or the huge chevy van in the driveway? naah... that has a 305 that sucks a little more gas than the 745...)

Thanks.

stefan

"...think any of the others may have streched, and if I should just replace them all?"

If they haven't broken, you're probably OK. Loosen and retorque 'em all to 15 lb-ft.

"...it broke half way off so I can still get it with a pliers or some sort of tool..."

You're very lucky. A pair of Vise Grips whould work fine.

"Maybe my honda lawnmower? or the huge chevy van in the driveway?"

The Honda will have metric fasteners, the Chevy won't.

"...that has a 305 that sucks a little more gas than the 745..."

Yeah, but if it's registered and runs, use it for a day or two 'til you get the correct parts.

Remember, in a pinch you could buy an ordinary metric bolt at the hardware store. That application's not demanding.