Hi All. I had the Volvo a/c retrofit kit installed by an independent Volvo specialist. It was decent, though I had been wondering about adding an electric fan in front of everything, for better cooling (That was *supposed* to be my fun, easy project around now). But now, it seems that the system has leaked out--The compressor comes on, and I hear something hissing/whining through the system, but cooling ain't hap'nin'.

I hear so much talk of other (better?) refrigerants.....Freeze 12, etc.... Is this an opportunity to make a change, or should I just bring it back for leak- detection and refilling?? Thank you!

Joe,

What's wrong with getting a pressure gauge and checking the pressure level yourself? If you want a quick & cheap pressure check, you could buy a cheesy R-134 (compatible) A/C pressure gauge at Discount Auto Parts for about $4.95. This will, at least, tell you the pressure level. On the other hand, you might want to purchase a nicer Pressure guage/system, complete with R-134 installation kit, with solid large pressure valves, "steam" gauges, plenty of hose length, all the necessary high and low pressure quick-disconnect fittings, and so forth, at K-Mart, for $39.95. No, I don't hold K-Mart stock. But this way, you can more accurately check your R-134 pressure level, and you would also be prepared to recharge the system - yourself, after you locate & stop the leak. There are ways of locating & stopping leaks in R-134 systems, and I'm sure it's not that difficult to do, but get someone else's expertise on that. Me...I used a can of R-134/sealant along with the regular R-134 & R-134 oil that came with my kit, and there were no leaks after the can of "fix". I spent under $50, and I have a system to test pressure levels and recharge in the future. Also, the process of charging is not that hard to do, particularily with the new R-134 low pressure (small fitting) and high pressure (larger fitting) quick disconnects - that make it impossible to connect to the wrong pressure side (i.e., high side). If you do the recharge yourself, just be careful, keep your hands (and hair) away from all moving engine parts, wear protective eyewear, and read the instructions. It's a good experiece actually. Good luck.

Hi, Tim. Thanks for the reply... Are you saying that there are cans of "sealant", like "fix-a-flat" that can be added? Can one just buy all this stuff these days?

/// Did the retro fit include a new compressor? I have been told that there are seals on the old R12 compressor that cannot be replaced. (Labor too expensive not unrepairable) If the compressor was working the shop may not have wanted to repace it until failure. The cost is the same. About $120 plus another $120? for a clutch if needed.

Any way... The seals fail with time and then you do the compressor replacement. All new compressors are equipped with R134 type seals.

Thank you, LK. If it turns out to need a new compressor, are there "higher-capacity" compressors that can replace the old one, and in effect give me a "system upgrade"?

/// Not that I know of. But some one else may know more about the possible aftermarket AC replacements. Just changing for a higher power compressor won't pick up the cooling though. The problem is heat exchange and it is a balanced system where the parts are designed to work together.

If you compress more, the condensor radiator would also have to be larger and then the evaporator would require some change so that larger heat exchange would occur in the pass compartment too. I don't know what the limiting factors are. If you find definitive information post it.

If you do not already have one, a fan on the condensor might help more than trying to mess with the AC sealed circuit. These AC units work fine at highway speed, it's around town that they die. A new fan, mounting hardware, relay, cutoff switch, would run at least $70/80. Used would be fine except for the fan mounting kit.

You will have to find and repair the leak or forget about the system.

If one "forgets about the system", can the belt to the compressor be

removed?

I'm looking to save gas this summer with Chicagoland prices heading to

$3.00 a gallon. Yikes.

Larry

>You will have to find and repair the leak or forget about the system.

And when you fill it, use Freeze12............................

Are you sure you can use Freeze 12 in a 134a syatem? I believe that Freeze 12 is a replacement for a R12 only.

Actually the molecule in a 134 refrigerant is smaller than in 12, so a recharge every two years is about normal.

Is freeze 12 that propane/butane mix or something that won't blast your ass to the moon when you open the door with a lit cig after the evaporator leaks?

So, Jim, you're saying that maybe I have nothing to worry about in terms of any major leaks, and it is just a matter of re-charging?

I also wonder about adding refrigerants wih better cooling efficiency--such as Freeze 12, but have concerns like you mentioned.

Joe,

I purchased an R-134 retrofit kit that had three (3) cans of R-134, one (1) can of pressurized oil, and the necessary hoses, valves, and R-134-unique quick-disconnect fittings.

The above would have been enough R-134 & oil to recharge & retrofit my car, but...as I mentioned, I needed to stop a leak.

So, I purchased one (1) can of R-134 WITH sealant. I believe it was between 12-16 oz....same size as the regular R-134 pressurized cans.

Voila! The R-134 refrigerant/sealant/"fix-a-flat" worked.

Who knows, maybe it won't work in your leak...but, maybe it will.

One final tip...if you can part with another $40 (i.e., $39.95 for the basic R-134 retrofit kit [includes R-134 refrigerant & fittings] and $40 for the Installation Kit Upgrade) then, I would strongly recommend purchasing this K-mart-stocked Installation upgrade kit. The upgrade kit includes a nice pressure gauge, quite long hoses, and valves that were intended to be operated "as" you install R-134, not "in-between" cans of R-134.

I didn't have this nice kit. But, it would have made the job easier & safer. I just had to remove the installation valve (after shutting off the valve)...when I "thought" it was nearing its design pressure (which, if I remember correctly, was between 24-44psi).

The 'high-dollar' (i.e., $40) valve kit would certainly make the chore easy.

By the way, the "fix-a-flat" as you call it, R-134/sealant can was about $4.00 U.S. There are other "sealants" available, I simply chose the one that was made by the same company as my R-134 retrofit kit.

I wish you luck & safety in the process.

If you have any questions, just email me back. My main goal was to give it a try, and not lose any fingers or eyes in the process. My first R-134 retrofit was on my 1984 Peugeot wagon (which has very cold a/c now), then I did my wife's 1992 Isuzu trooper. Same principle.

v/r,

Tim Grimes

New Orleans

Joe,

One last, not-so-obvious issue. The kit's instructions specify (in very fine print) that the low pressure valve core must be remove BEFORE you install the LOW and HIGH pressure R-134 fittings.

I had to go through SEVERAL kits at K-Mart and check the R-134 valves (specifically, the low presure valves), apparently, because a previous purchaser of the kits had tried to install the new, R-134 Low pressure retrofit fittings on TOP of the old R-12 valve -- WITHOUT first removing the valve core. Obviosly, this would damage the new R-134 valve core on the retrofit kit. Make sense?

Just inspect your kit, maybe remove it from the plastic and make sure it isn't "bent" and, that it doesn't "leak".

Good luck,

Tim Grimes

New Orleans