Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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My 245 sucks...batteries that is. 140-160 82

I am getting a fresh battery today to replace the old one that I stole out of my Mini. (lousy fit by the way) The car seems to be draining the juice out of batteries, I have disconnected the door lock wiring on the driver's door (didn't work anyway) and it seems to help a bit. Is there a better way to check these things? Also I had to remove the center console to attempt a repair on it (it's in about 6 pieces) Now the turn signal doesn't work. Is it wired through the hazard light?

Thanks,








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    Re: My 245 sucks...batteries that is. 140-160 82

    1-flashers: when you remove the hazard switch, it's normal that the flashers don't work.

    2-Central Lock: It's the first draining device because the driver door switch tends to fail in the lock position. The locking motors remain turned on because there is not a timing relay like in the 700s. Check if you hear the motors going on and off as you turn your key in the switch.








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      Re: My 245 sucks...batteries that is. 200 82

      Thanks all. I taped off the central locking wires yesterday after I installed the new battery (and Master Cyl). It held a charge overnight :-)

      I also re-installed the center console and everything works now (still need a replacement) Sorry for putting this on the 140/160 forum, My mistake.








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        used center console 200 82

        I have a few center consoles laying around, contact me Tbradstr@aol.com if interested.








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    Re: My 245 sucks...batteries that is. 140-160 82

    /// You want to use the drain test.

    First remove all hidden bulbs, trunk and under hood, glove box, if you have them, then place small bulb or ammeter in the negative battery cable. (between the post and cable) There should be parasitic drains from the clock and radio memory, remove the fuses until the drain stops.

    If you still have a current reading or the small bulb lights remove lines from the distribution box usually behind the battery (200's) until the bulb or reading stops. (On old 140 etc this is a screw connector insulated plate between the left headlight and battery.)

    I suggest you start with the main alternator wire if the hidden bulb or fuse first and second steps did not work. A fault in the voltage regulator can cause this.

    Be sure you use a low current 12 volt bulb for this. A turn signal bulb, for instance might pass the current but not light because of the high current required for these bulbs. The resistance of the 12 volt filament will limit the current. This will hide the true size of the drain. Use an ammeter for that once you have a rough guess as to the size of the drain current from the brightness of the test bulb. Even a small bulb may only glow if the drain current is small.

    There are other possible causes to kill batteries including bad intermittent cables. Repost for those instructions.








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    Re: My 245 sucks...batteries that is. 140-160 82

    Gromit -

    You really need that Volvo Service Manual Wiring diagrams for that car.

    Yes, the turn signals go thru the hazard lights, same flasher, I think.

    Take out all the fuses. Make a test light using a low wattage bulb, and put it across where a fuse goes. Note where it lights up and how bright.

    That'll give you a clue as to what's going on.

    Center console - you mean it's broken into 6 pieces? If yes, head for eBay or a boneyard. They can be repaired, but it is a PITA and requires a plastic bonding agent and some sort of reinforcement inside.

    Good Luck,

    Bob








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