Hi !!!!

I have been experiencing brake problems with my 765 Volvo. Strange vibration durring braking. Especialy with moderate pedal presure. I can feel the whole car is pulsating when braking. It feels like it is braking only on half of the wheel revolution. Like the ABS is activating but much less frequently.

So far I checked warpage of the front rotors and found it to be less than 0.001" Checked with dial on magnetic stand. Proceding to rear brakes I found that there is play in the bearing. I can move the the disc in and out by 1 or 2 mm. Opened the axle hub and found that one piece bearing had separated. now I can remove outer race of it.

New bearing is coming in tommorow.

My question is: How difficult is it to remove the crush colar of the old bearing? Can a good hack saw do the trick?

If I get it off, is it possible to instal new bearing without the press. IF I freeze the axle in the freezer and heat the bearing and crush collar in the ovenwill I be able to install them together using some suports , pipe to push the bearing with and a hammer. Or is it just beter to pay $25 to press it on?

Has anyone try that?

Thanks for input

Rob

You don't need to mess with the crush collar. The crush collar is the ring and pinion adjustment, if like Ford products. All you have to do is pull the axle, which you evidently have already done, and have the old bearing pressed off and the new one pressed on (greased, of course). Don't forget a new grease seal and a new axle shaft seal.

Yes the shaft pulls easly out. I'm mentioning the retainer that is right next to the bearing and holds it in plase. Without it the shaft would simply slide out.

I'm on the tight budget so trying to avoid machine shop.

How difficult is it to replace?

You need a press, or to pay someone to press the bearing on and off. A U-Pull It may sell you a complete axle with a good bearing for less. But if the grease seal on the axle is bad, you would have spent your money for nothing. The axle seal in the housing may need replaced, too. It can be a chore to remove and replace if you don't have a sliding knocker with a set jaws for pulling the seal.

John ; This would be a good idea to get limited slip axle od auto locking differantial. What about gear ratio?

What engine and transmission are in your car? Let me know and I'll respond with your differential ratio. The local U-Pull it charges $65 US for a complete rear end. For that kind of price, you can't make any major repairs. Volvo limited slip differentials are very rare, and expensive. However in 1991 Volvo started installing the 1041 rear axle as standard equipment, and it is a locking differential (as opposed to a the earlier limited slip with clutches). Where are you?

My Volvo is 765 turbo wagon. My trany is non locking converter type. Car was made in 1990. Rear brakes are ATE.

I live in Staten Island; NY but work in cental NJ. Can travel on weekends. i have to watch budget as I will also need to replace rear springs. Had Nivomats there but P.O. took care of them. Replaced with Sensatracks at the local JOBO. Installed coil busters and now looks like one side of the car is sagging more then the other. I think coils were overloaded and they got busted. Or it may be the "shock absorber" that lost pressure. Nivomats are kind of expensive and I like a soft ride as I moustly travel alone and roads are like shit around here. It's not Sweden here You know what I mean...

I'm being double taxed!!!!

Rob

You have a 3.73 ratio rear differential. Brian Leppin in Bryans Road, MD is close to you and VERY reasonable on Volvo parts. Phone 301-367-2244, email Brian@volvousedparts.com. I have had several dealings with him, and he is tops.

By the way, the bearing is not one piece, but a seperate tapered roller bearing and race. You press the greased bearing and retainer collar onto the akle shaft, and tap the race in to the recess on the axle housing.

The earlier axles have the separate tapered roller bearing and race, but the 1990 models do have a one piece roller bearing. I just took a 1031 axle from a 1990 745T apart, and it is a one piece roller bearing. You are correct on the earlier models. I am not sure what year the change was made.