Thanks, Bc, I hadn't thought of the gear slipping on its axis, maybe working when a burr snags it.

Don: haven't opened up the dash yet (no time to, so far--I use the car for work). Is the board the relay is on that easy to get to? I figured soldering with the board in situ might be a tough gig. Again, haven't had the chance to get into it yet; lots of recent rain, & we've been hoeing & mowing.

Thanks again. TB

Sorry TB --

I haven't paid attention. Which relay? Model 'n year?

Incidentally, when we talk of "relays," we're really taking of an electronic circuit, which includes an actual relay, plus other electronic components. These components (resistors, transistirs, ICs, etc.) are mounted on a small printed circuit board alongside the relay. This part-laden circuit board is stuffed into a plastic box. This assembly of parts plus relay in the box is called a "relay." Confusing?

These components and the circuit give the relay assembly its unique operating characteristics, such as flasher, toggle-on-toggle-off OD relay, fuel pump relay, intermittent wipers, delayed interior light, seat belt alarm, and so on.

Anyway, to resolder a plastic-cased relay, you remove it from the plastic case and resolder the soldered connections on the backside of the printed circuit board. The bigger connections -- the ones that mount the actual relay or the heavy connection lugs -- are the most likely to crack.

I use a solder gun for the heavier connections and a small iron for the small connections.

When you're ready I'll post some pictures.