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Yes, FM modulators are fine unless you just use a piece of junk head unit. Or a piece of junk CD player. A head unit with either an internal or external EQ is the best way to go, so you can tune out the very fine background noise, which usually amounts to a dull hiss.
Naturally, a rotten CD head unit gives noise anyway.
Personally, I'm currently using a Pioneer 6-disc with modulator and remote, and a newer Pioneer DEH-P3000 head unit (I think) with CD player. Honestly, I like the changer better, since it skips not at ALL, and I can shuffle six discs at once. They sound very equal, and you can adjust the output volume of the CD changer anyway, so you aren't really looking at different volume levels or whatnot.
Since you can adjust all the settings, you really CAN get good sound from an FM modulator.
Now, to answer the routing question, I'll give a couple of options. Regardless of having a modulator or not, you still have to run either power or remote cables to the trunk, so the routes are all the same.
Ditto goes for cell phones, amps, speaker boxes, etc., for anyone who is doing that kind of job.
First, figure out which route would work best for you. Determine where in the trunk you're going to mount the unit, then figure out if you'd be better routing the cables through the transmission tunnel area (sometimes) or going under the dash to the side of the car (I like the left side because there's a lot of wiring there to begin with) and running under the carpet, at the corner of the floor pans. That is if you are mounting under the rear speaker deck.
If you@re running cables next to the door sills, pop off all of the door trim, and peel back the carpet. You don't need to pull the front seats, but pulling the back seat up or out will help you out at some point. Then you just have to shove the seatback aside a little while you try to move wires through the next challenge.
Getting the cables up, under the rear seat, and along the rear wheel arch is simple enough. You can just pull that little plastic cover (under the little corner window in the back of the car) back enough to route them behind there.
Now you have to go and fish them through to the trunk. As you look into the trunk, at the top of the wheel arches is a little piece of foam in a triangular shaped hole. Pop that out, and voila, there is the inside of the car. Run the wires through there, put them into a nice piece of accordion conduit (like the GM cars use) and run them to the CD changer. They can be cable-tied under the rear speaker shelf if that's where you're mounting them.
If you're mounting in the right-rear compartment, then route the cables all through the right side of the floor pans, through the rear seat, wheel arch, and into the rear compartment. Incidentally, the paneling along the wheel arch and the rear of the trunk can be unscrewed and you can tuck everything in carefully.
There's usually no need for any grommets or protection while passing through to the trunk. The edges are not very sharp, and shouldn't chafe through.
One more benefit to the rear-deck mounting location (center, under the rear deck) is that IF you are using a modulator, you'll have to hook up to the antenna. The antenna connection is right in the rear left quarter panel, and easily accessed. That way all your wiring is together in the trunk. Depending on the options of the model, there can be a B+ already back there for an accessory (*if you're lucky, that is). Otherwise, you'll have to fish back a B+, and in that case, wire it right to the fusebox, to a non-essential fuse.
Grounds are plentiful in the trunk. S/B no problem there.
Most CD changer kits give you enough length to wire a Suburban. You'll have a little left over... tuck it away somewhere.
Really it isn't as hard as it looks. Once you take everything out, you'll be home free. The only other challenge is the big driver's side knee bolster, and once that's gone, you can wire to the fusebox very easily.
More questions? Let me know. I've wired just about everything in and out of Volvo 240s, sedans and wagons. Many times!
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