Ok,what's the problem?I pulled the cluster,and removed the gauge when I had one that I thought would replace it,it was different,so I worked the needle back and forth alot thinking since the car sat a while before I bought it it was just corroded or something in there,well that wasn't the case,and I'm not so lucky as some that I can tap the dash and get it to work,if I have a full tank,sometimes hitting the cluster will make it work for a little bit,but more often than not it won't,and I'm not talking about a tap either!!I literally had a bloody knuckle after one episode,this is bothering me a lot to say the least,Also I plugged everything in,and worked the needle back and forth,no help.I think the problem is elsewhere in the cluster,But the question is where and how to fix?Other than that,the car is coming along very nicely,I owe much of it to this list.Thanks in advance,

Justin

Here is the procedure for testing the fuel gauge and sender. To check the accuracy of the gauge you will need a 68 ohm resistor to do it the correct way.

To check the fuel level sender disconnect the battery negative lead. Disconnect fuel gauge sending unit connector and measure resistance between the Gray/White and Brown wires. Resistance should be 0-280 ohms(15 gallon tank), or 0-367.5 ohms(21 gallon tank). If resistance is not to specification, replace sending unit.

Resistance should increase 5 ohms for each 1/4 gallon(1 L). If resistance does not increase as specified, replace the sending unit.

Let us know if you have any questions about the procedures. Good luck!