I thought I was buying s decent car - 87 with an 89 B230F engine. Until it overheated on the road ($225 tow charge). Fixed that - bad pressure cap; now I have the right (low pressure) one (but not from my local dealer - "they don't exist" - from Jim Fisher Volvo, via the net, thanks to this site.)

Ran good for a couple of weeks, then went into limp mode, then worse. Have had "professional" diagnostic help - costly, but still doesn't make the car run. Will crank and start - but won't drive - dies when going into gear. What I have done so far, in order, thanks to tips from this site:

Plugs/wires

Thermostat, expansion tank cap

Flame trap/cleanup of area

Cleaned up IAC

Cleaned throttle body - was filthy

Checked all fuses and cleaned up contact areas

Did quick and dirty check on the FPR - No problem found

AMM (probably unecessary - the "expert" swore that would do it - I'm swearing now)AND THERMOSTAT

ECT sensor/wiring cleanup.

After the ECT, it wouldn't start. Did the old Jumper trick for the FP/FI relay -heard the pump for the first time ever. AHA! Repalced the relay - car started, but still runs like crap. TIMING seems to be the problem - it is sitting at approx 28 - 30 BTDC - I know that is wrong. Can't loosen distro to try to move the mark. Looked at belt - looks brand new.

Question: Can the radiator-mounted thermo sensor be the culprit? I read somewhere that this will advance the timing about 13 degrees - just about what I am dealing with. I am really tired of building a Volvo piece by piece - this is my first, but may be my last if I can't fix it.

Thanks to anyone who can help me regain my manliness by fixing this %#%) thing!

On these cars, the crankshaft pulley outer section is bonded to a rubber ring inside. You will hear LOTS of funny noises when the car is running and the outer pulley is slipping on the inner section.

The timing marks must be properly aligned. It may have slipped a tooth, or two. The only way to tell is to remove the front upper cover, set the engine to crank TDC, firing position, and look at the upper timing belt gear. There is a small mark used for alignment. The lower covered driving sprocket can only be checked by removing the crank. pulley which can be a long job.

Check the 700/900 FAQ via the features pull down menu for instructions on this. There are some pics too.

Resolder the fuel pump relay while you're at it.

My '86 744Ti has 279,000 miles on it.

BTW, the fuel pump relay also powers the AMM, at least on the LH 2.2 cars.

One other thing, the later engines used LH 2.4 and the temp sensors are different. Check the sensor with a VOM for resistance at different temps. There should be a chart in the FAQ. Also, the LH 2.2's Got their timing signal off the distributor while the 2.4's were off the flywheel.

Go check these areas and get back to us.

I hope this helps.

to WBain - Thanks for the tips - tonight we shall see.

FYI - I have a 2.4 system ('89 engine), and I have replaced the ETC sensor and the fuel pump relay.

At least this car is living up to its safety rating - no ne has gotten hurt with it sitting in the driveway! (Humor... or I'd go nuts!)

My point is: You have an '89 engine in an '87 car. Take the passenger side lower cover off and look at the ECU. It will have the version numnber. Early cars had LH 2.2, later cars had LH 2.4, with the OBD-I system and a diagnostic connector in the engine compartment including a small LED. It's like comparing apples and peanut butter. In other words, you cannot mix and match. The garage that installed the engine presumably knew this and switched temp sensors.

Mike: OUCH! It hurts just to read your post. Looks you've had both good and bad help. Here's some tips, just my $.o2, and the hopr that some more help from here will get you back on the road. (1): join AAA; for what you paid for one tow you could have a 'de luxe' membership for 3 or 4 years (there may be a mileage/distance limit for their tows, but that's something you can ask them about on their 800 number). (2): that T-belt should be on at TDC; a bad harmonic balancer could be decomposing, adding to, if not creating, your problem: paint a stripe of white-out in a straight line from the outer to the inner pulley, check it to see if they start to not line up...you might want to do this in your driveway; do the paint, let the car run for a while, check it with engine off, do that a few times. Other advice to follow, I am sure, including a radiator flush, and a thorough distributor check/rebuild, fuel filter change. Good luck, amigo, keep us posted.--PD

PD -

Marks stay at a constant 28 -30 degrees BTDC. Do you know of any way to "statically" check the belt position other than taking the whole thing apart? I guess if I have to, I have to, but...

I like your trick - will check tonight. Thanks. Intend to flush radiator if I can get it running...