posted by
someone claiming to be Rob
on
Mon Nov 5 04:57 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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anyone shed any light on this for me? starts, runs a lil rough for about 5 seconds, then dies. will do that 3 or 4 times, then won't start at all. if i press the gas at all that instantly kills it. too much fuel??? i tried disconnecting the cold start injector and it wouldn't start at all. any help greatly appreciated. -Rob '75 245 w/ B20 motor.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Dennis W.
on
Mon Nov 5 15:32 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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Rob, Do you have a wiring diagram for all the under hood wires? Some wire may not be connected if they were replaced, removed or damaged.
I agree with the idea to check for fuel from the individual injectors.
After the engine dies, pull some plugs to see if they are wet with fuel.
My thoughts are you are not getting fuel after the cold start injector closes when the temperature sensor warms up after 3-4 starts.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rob
on
Mon Nov 5 15:43 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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Dennis, I agree. that is a very logical explanation. I'll get to it Wednesday. Brickboard is wonderful! Has saved me much frustration.
I think my manual shows how to check the injectors. I have the old 75-80 240 series manual by Haynes. I really really miss driving my Volvo!! My other car might have shiny paint, leather, sunroof, wood grain dash, CD changer etc.... but it isn't a Volvo!! -Rob "had swedish meatballs for dinner" Sealover
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posted by
someone claiming to be will
on
Thu Nov 8 15:41 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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I had this same problem on my 85 240.Disconnect the wiring connector at your air-mass meter.If car continues to run without shutting off, you have a bad air-mass meter. By disconnecting from air meter,you set your ecm to a'LIMP HOME MODE' which cause poor perfomance and smoking but it will get you home. GOOD LUCK
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rob
on
Thu Nov 8 16:30 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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ECM???? It's a 75. thing has like one wire in the entire car. i think it works the left headlight. :) seriously though, my fuel injection is pretty much all manual. the cold start injector has some wires going into it, and so does the pressure switch, i believe that's the ONLY electrical things on the intake system. everything else is vacuum operated. :/ -Rob
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posted by
someone claiming to be General Confusion
on
Sat Nov 10 11:58 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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Look for a BIG vacuum leak. This sounds just like the syptoms I had with my kid's 240 when the vacuum line to the power brakes came disconnected.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rob
on
Sat Nov 10 13:16 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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figured it out.... took a fuel injector in to Lehman Volvo, York PA. they were nice enough to stay open 5 mins late to clean and test my injector. it's shot the guy says. junkyard trip tomorrow. shall find some more. (hopefully) when the car overheated it melted the plastic fuel lines, i guess pieces of them got sucked into the fuel injector? or the fuel injector internals got toasted??? beats me, but they're all shot. Thanks brickboard! -Rob
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posted by
someone claiming to be Dennis W.
on
Fri Nov 9 03:03 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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Rob, Any progres to report since Monday? Can you get a steady stream of fuel at the fuel distributor? Hate to have you drive that Honda all winter! (Volvo's really like the snow.)
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posted by
someone claiming to be patrick of montreal
on
Fri Nov 9 02:23 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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The thread is gone so I'm not sure of the problem but the first thing I thought was ballast resistor, but then the car would only run when you were cranking. It might just be starting to fail, try jumping the ballast. Otherwise the problem is probably the fuelline/filter. Restriction there will cause a short running time followed by failure due to fuel starvation, when you turn it off residual vaccum in the fuel line draws enough fuel up for another short run (been there). I presume you have a B20 with electronic ign and K-Jet but the fuel thing is something I only got with carbs, and I know that a lot of te 245s had carbs (in Canada anyway).
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posted by
someone claiming to be Pete Fluitman
on
Mon Nov 5 08:28 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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It sounds to me like what it is doing is using the fuel from the cold start injector, which gives you a few seconds running time. The question now is why won't it run on. Clearly it has a spark.
Try seeing if the metering flap on the (I am assuming this is a K jet???) has got stuck. No lift on the flap, no fuel. If you have developed a chronoc air leak, by some breather hose coming off it will have the same effect. The metering flap won't lift because the air leak prevents a vacuum forming, ergo no injected fuel, leads to no run.
Regards
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rob
on
Mon Nov 5 08:58 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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EXCELLENT suggestions. yes, it's a K-jet. i searched for vacuum leaks, couldn't locate any. when i disconnect the cold start injector, it doesn't even attempt to run. i suppose it could possibly be my injectors too? when the car overheated it got REAL hot. melted the fuel lines clean off the injectors. maybe it toasted the injectors? -Rob
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posted by
someone claiming to be Pete Fluitman
on
Mon Nov 5 12:41 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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The injectors could be shot. With the K jet you can't pull one injector, turn over the engine and expect it to squirt. Pulling an injector nadgers up the lift on the metering flap.
Instead pull an injector and point it at a container. Get the fuel pump running, and then manually lift the metering flap. The injectors should squirt.
Regards
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kaveh
on
Mon Nov 5 05:19 CST 2001 [ RELATED]
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Hey Buddy
I use have the exact same problem with my 760 turbo, and on my car was the Air mass meter, so, compering your problem to mine, is for sure the wrong amount air, i don't think that your car is computerzied, but if it is, and if you car has the air mass meter check on thoes, its not your fuel mange. system, is you air mang. system.
Hope fully it all work out for you.
take care.
-Kaveh
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