Not wanting to start a war here, but I seeem to recall from the last go-around on this topic that a brickboarder wrote in to say that it was not necessary to lift the engine at all, but all you had to do was take the load off and undo the bolts at the cross member and the top of the mount and slide the whole thing out. No muss no fuss, I think was the phrase they used.

I do recall that there were quite a few replies warning against the "jack it up on the oil pan" method, but also just as many saying they had done it and had no problems.

Sounds like it is a case of "Ya pays yer money and takes yer chances"

In my case, I pays my money to the dealer. Yes I know I'm going to get flamed regarding taking it to the dealer, but if I can spend a few dollars and have someone else do the work while I spend time with my family, it's more than worth it.

The last go-around with this question was pretty entertaining to say the least.

The real answer depends on how you decide to do things.

What I usually do is put the car on stands, put a 2x4 on the floor jack, and jack the engine using the oil pan BUT NOT THE !@#$% DRAIN PLUG!

The last couple of times I've just hoisted the engine instead, but I use a shop with overhead lifting equipment.

Which way is better? The overhead way, on a 700 series because the hood opens a lot farther than a 200 series. The oil pan method is harmless when properly executed.

When jacking the engine, it pays to make sure that you don't overdo it. The thing can only come up so far when it's still bolted to the crossmember in the back, and trying to get it farther than that will result in a cracked bellhousing or damaged engine from jacking under the oil pan. Hoisting from the top will cause you to meet the same fate if overdone.

There are some cool sounding devices to support the engine from above, but I've never found them necessary. Just position the wood pad under the oil pan properly. I use SPF 2x4 blocks because they're soft and conform to the contour of the pan rather than not. That way if you are in a bad spot, the wood takes up some of the force.

Waldo,

I rigged up a hillbilly way to change my mounts, and it's free.Jack your car up maybe three to four inches. Now , take a 2 by 4 approx 3-4 feet long and slide it down next to the engine to the ground, you just are getting an approx. length here, and what you want to do is cut it off so that you can wedge it under say the exhaust manifold on the pass. side, (or any solid engine part) and the intake manifold (closer to the block so as to not break anything) on the driver side, or again any good solid thing that won't snap off, then experiment around, as you SLOWLY jack the car down, you will see that the engine will raise enough to to get the mount off and the new one on. Do not raise the engine too high, just enough to get the mount out and in. I know this sounds stupid, but I have changed at least 10 mounts this way, with no problems, and you just have to keep fooling around with it and it will work. It is not near as difficult as it sounds.

The elusive goober.

I have used 4"x4" LUMBER ABOUT 3-4 FT LONG POSITIONING IT ON OIL PAN IN FRONT AND TRANS PAN IN REAR, jacked up in center with floorjack. sounds primitive because it is. works just fine and short piece of lumber barely was stressed, a jackstand was in place for safety fwd on oilpan. its been 2 years and mounts are holding well and neither oil or trans pan have leaked. I'm sure there is a better way, I did this with minimal resources.

Wally: I guessed you missed the back-and-forth started by some poor soul who had followed directions given here on how to jury-rig a from-the-bottom

engine raising device; CAUTION: avoid most car-related ideas that begin with the words:"pressure-treated lumber." He tried to raise his car using the oilpan as the focal point for a lot of upward energy and a lot of downward gravity...it evidently was not a happy result. There ARE devices for lifting the engine from the top: you need one, or maybe two of them. They are VERY sturdy sguare steel tubes that span your open engine compartment , using hooks that attach to lift-brackets on your engine, the lifting caused by a screw that lifts the hook, and the engine follows. S'pose you could find a place that rents them, dunno know for sure. Lots of community colleges have 'driveway/shadetree' mechanic courses, a great way to meet other DIYers, AND make some tool-lending buddies...or is that an oxymoron? Whatever you do, BE CAREFUL. Good Luck --PD.