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Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

I am just copying part of this from the other comments below in my travals as a backyard amatuer mechanic of the lowest order. I've succeeded in getting the waterpump in even in the cold New England rain. The Hayne's and probably the glove box manual tell how to replenish coolant so I'm alright. I've run it for 20 minutes on the road and in idle and no leaks!!!

Didn't even miss work today as it was called off for rain. So I've got a little time to fix things but body work's out as it's too cold and wet.

And I'm 'copping' out and getting someone to change my oil.

Just in case I am having my local mechanic check my work ..(as I rub it in that he among others said the old waterpump was fine... but actually it was except it was shorter (maybe gasket was too tight???) in shaft length than new one and rubbed fan belt pully tightener and practically ate through the timing belt cover. But it was the waterpump upper seal that gave way. Meanwhile I am sick of working in the rain and paying the mechanic for an oil change and maybe getting snow tires too.

This mechanic I am talking about agrees with Don Foster about the inferiority of Fram filters. He recommends Hastings which he uses. (He's the better of the three mechanics so at least I'll know where I can get help...)

He also recommends Cooper tires. The ones I've seen look as good as Hakkas and are a bit cheaper and longer lasting he says.....

I wonder if Slick 50's a good thing???? I bought some with my "Orange Kiss of Death" Fram filter. (should I return it too with the fram filter I no longer need???) The synthetic oil is a bit too expensive and is said only better if changed regularly. If dirty it's no better than regular oil. So what's the big diff????








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    Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

    Regarding Slick 50 ...

    http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_Slick_501.html

    -- Kane ... your call on what you want to do with it now.









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      Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

      thanks Kane for the informative web page. link here

      That's pretty impressive. I can see marketing Slick to the standard American or Japanese oil eating end of life cycle engine owner but not good for an already well functioning engine, esp. a totally non-oil consuming engine like mine (even if 16 years old!!)

      My engine in 3000 miles didn't use a drop of oil. And yet I was suckered to buy a 4 qt package with qt. of Slick 50 because the price of synthetic oil was So High and the same additives seemed to be in Slick as in the synthetics. I shoulda just let the mechanic put his 4 qts of generic oil in. Btw, It's unique, perhaps, that Volvos have a perfectly 4 qt. fill at least in my case. 4 qts in and it lines up perfectly on the dip stick at full mark. I remember my Toyota was either 3 and a half or 4 and a half .. and if someone mechanic put the whole last quart in it was likely the seals would blow out and oil consumption would increase. That happened towards the end of it's life... the engine is still fine but used about a quarter of quart per thousand miles..not bad, but nothing like this Volvo which never moves from it's Full mark.

      I suspect Slick maybe jazzing up my engine a little with clogging of micro gaps in rings perhaps ... thus why people love the stuff... In reading the article it seems that Slick and it's "teflon" additives isn't all bad, but likely to increase oxidization (rust).... which here in the northeast is the main killer of cars. Something I want to avoid. Although most Volvos (and Toyotas) here die of external decay, not engine destruction. Which is a real battle against rust of the frame and body.

      I think I'll redo the oil when I go back to the mechanic's and have him change my car into it's new snow tires. It'll give him a chuckle, only cost about 30 bucks and we'll all feel better. I don't think this'll give my car major consequences and if I change the oil soon it'll help flush out the system better than it's been in awhile. I am now suspicious of synthethic oils too though as they market teflon in their oil too I've heard. Perhaps Paul can weigh in on that detail. His oil probably doesn't and the Mechanic didn't say anthing wrong with synthetic oils .. just that they might not be worth it for older cars and that older cars should at least be checked up on every 3000 miles anyway so having an oil change then benefits the car in more ways than just oiling it. He gave a demonstration of all the things he checks (radiator, battery, fan belts and I was impressed at what a deal 30 bucks is when going to a trusted mechanic....

      The reason I am not psyched about changing my own oil: no cost benefits. (oil and filter of good quality costs almost the costs of having the mechanic do it if the time is included, and costs of discarding the used oil is included...) the only benefit is that I can do it whenever without leaving a car at a shop or going to a quicklub place where they'd with low wage employees like in other cars (like the Toyota) overfill the engine with oil.









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        Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

        "I am now suspicious of synthethic oils too though as they market teflon in their oil too I've heard. Perhaps Paul can weigh in on that detail."

        I have lost some weight, so I'll happily weigh in!

        Never have ANY synthtetic oil manufacturers added PTFE (Teflon) to their oil. It just doesn't make sense to add something that has proven detrimental to an oil base that has PROVEN to be so superior.

        As for synthetic oil and older cars there are really only a few reasons not to use synthetic oil:

        1) The sucker is leaking or burning oil.

        2) You don't give a crap about your old ruster.

        3) Your car is a NON-turbo and change your oil at 3,000 mile intervals and you don't care about cooler running, better power output, more MPG, longer change intervals, less wear on moving parts during cold starts because of much lower pump temperatures compared to petroleum oil and less wear from oil degradation by-products.









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          Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

          Maybe I'm in category 3, but if I go the synthetic route just when and how often should I change my oil????

          perhaps I'll catch you up in a later thread.

          I am totally inthrawed with the latest mechanic either as I just reread the modest bill he gave me... he charged me for the oil (I bought including the infamous Slick 50)... but at the modest 34 bucks he did find a few things I needed to help the old volvo.

          I think the parts store guy said something about synthetics as "teflon" but maybe I got it mixed up with the Slick 50??? Hmmm as the Volvo only needs 4 qts max.... at about 6 bucks a qt. and a good oil filter about 5 bucks..... about 30 bucks total plus labor. I am guessing you recommend changing it every 5000 miles ???








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            not totally enthrawed is what I meant to say..... 200 '86

            may have to do do-it-yourself ....

            but that's only because I hate car payments. I get a little envious of the straight and narrow types with their big car payments and shiny new cars.. until I hear their complaints about returning them to the dealers week after week.

            note, newer Ford 4WD truck: 45,000 miles: two new clutches, two brake jobs!!! new Saturn: leaking windshield twice Unfixed,,,, '

            and my favorate: Volvo AWD CrossCountry: wears out tires every 10,000 miles!!!








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              I thought it was "enthralled".... 200 '86

              But to answer your question I change the oil in the 245 turbo at 10,000 mile intervals. The oil is still good, per lab analyis, but I sample as I dump and heck....I like to try different Amsoil motor oils. I won't go gettin' technical on you but turbos are REALLY hard on oil. The nitrates are begining to elevate at 10,000 miles but again all the dirt and wear indicators are very low.

              I use 5W-30 in the 855 non-turbo, and the oil is essentially like new at 10,000 miles.

              Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 recommended change interval? 35,000 miles or 1 year. The oil lasts a LONG time, Mann or other good quality filters should be changed at normal oil change intervals. Amsoil oil filters (which are far superior to Mann), should be changed at 6 month or 12,500 mile intervals.








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                thanks for the spelling and info. 200 '86

                I am not sure I'll go to the extent of your oil flush proceedure. I liked your rust battle pages though with the older Volvo. My situation. Are there dealers of Amsoil out there? Are you the only it??? (at least for us on the web here)...

                (sorry will have to get some sleep next...)








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                  Re: thanks for the spelling and info. 200 '86

                  I'm it....just joking email me in private. Why not me?








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    Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

    The fram filter issue is a pretty touchy subject here! I didn't listen and replaced one of my oil filters (765Ti) from a Mann to a Fram! What a mistake now when I start the engine the low oil pressure light flashes on for a second! This never happened with the Mann filter. I actually had another Fram filter that I was giong to put on my 240-no way-I returned that sucker! From now on its Mann or Nothing!!!!!!








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    Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

    Good going on the water pump - I KNEW you could do it!

    Change oil yourself - heck, you can change a water pump!!!

    Return the Slick-50. That stuff is a cruel hoax and they have the law suits to prove it.

    On the other hand synthetic oil is not a joke. If you do use an extended oil change interval, you still just change your filter at the regular intervals. By the way, most of the "dirt" (and damage done by) petroleum oil is caused the degradation by-products of the oil and oil additives themselves. And yes I am biased....do you want me to send some data?








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      Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

      Ah ha! Paul, you have data? I am having the old 'Synthetic oil' vs 'Slick-50' arguement with a guy at my university who claims to know about cars and engines, he reckons it's the miracle cure for all that ails a car! So he'll be an engineer when he graduates, so will I, and I'm finishing first ;)

      Rubbish! I tell him, I've had it in my car and promptly flushed it out when I saw the condition of it after only a 1000 miles! Now I run synthetics alround, and it gives me everything the Slick-50 claimed but didn't deliver, and more.

      I say it's not up to the job... he quotes me a chemical formula for what's in it... I still think it's crap... And so the debate rages on :) (all friendly you understand) :) So Paul, some data would be nice, please ;) And what's this about law suits? I'm already smiling just thinking about dropping that one in over a lunchtime beer ;)

      Cheers,










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        beautiful Brick, I want one!!! 200 '86

        my rust bucket's not bad, mind you. But I love yours....

        I think Paul's winning the argument. I'll probably drop the oil plug pretty soon. I may have rust but my stock 160,000 engine is running well and I want to keep it that way.








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          Re: beautiful Brick, I want one!!! 200 '86

          I've got rust problems too Dave, but it's all underneath, and on the rear arches. But... I have the entire suspension from a decent 244 I found at the breakers, a friend in industry is arranging for it all to be shot blasted and galvanised for next to nothing ;) I hate rust the most after vandals, that picture was from before they got to it, 8 dents, 2 big scratches, a wrecked door lock and buckled trunk lid to date, they got my two neighbours cars recently too.

          .oO( I think I need a very big dog with a very short temper! )

          All the best,








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        Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

        Just poke this into your browser:

        http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/s50fdo.html

        For data on Amsoil just hit my link below and surf over to the corporate site for ASTM and NOACK test results.








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          Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

          Thanks Paul, :)

          ya know, my Amsoil dealer still won't ship the 'ART' over from the US due to lack of demand, I just don't know enough people who'd be interested. Too bad eh? Still, I'm more than happy with the ATF, thought the old M47 was a gonner, and as for how the Slick50 got in there ... "It wasn't me!"

          Thanks again,








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      Slick 50 = Cruel Hoax?? what do you mean??? 200 '86

      The mechanic didn't like it either but we did it anyway...... so you're saying I better change the oil pronto again???

      Slick 50 replaces one quart of oil with a lighter colored fluid. It is doubtful that it is the ruination of many engines or is it??? There is a "limited" warrantee with the Slick. The mechanic just chuckled and will give no warrantees although he didn't think it'd be a big deal as so many others love the stuff. (He likes Volvos btw and once owned an 1800ES and said pretty much what patrick of Montreal said about 'em... just a 120 or 140 with sportscar look...) I guess we could use my old Volvo as a guinnea pig.. but it'll be the last time I waste money on additives..... If there is the slightest loss of fluid (in the last 3000 I didn't use a drop of oil on my 160,000 plus beater) I'll drop the oil plug real quick. But it's raining and I'll live dangerously for now. I check the oil religiously every fill up.

      I note that the Cartalk guys aren't too impressed either with any additives. Although "Mystery Oil" did my old Toyota pretty good.

      This mechanic who I trust said Synthetic Oils are great for new cars but "like giving candy to a baby" for old cars. Not worth the extra expense in his opinion. I am not considering buying synthetic oils unless I decide to only change oil every 10,000 miles or so.

      the Mechanic may have sold me some Cooper snow tires next visit... and tightened fan hub nuts which he thought were a little loose... so it wasn't totally a success on my part.. (could've lost a radiator he said...)

      otherwise, batterie's good, rust is undercontrol and he says the nonworking O/D which hardly I ever need is getting voltage but maybe is fuse related or switch in stick non functioning. Checked differential and so forth.... and says he'd do that with any oil change .. so it's worth having a local regular mechanic... (like a doctor or dentist...) as his cost for labor, filter and oil was about the same as doing it yourself... and I wouldn't have been tempted by 'Slick'>>>>

      i am sure doing it yourself is worth the hassle.... (but if it breaks on the weekend,,, there's no alternative.)








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        Re: Slick 50 lawyer suitcase link..... 200 '86

        http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/s50fdo.html

        Additives just aren't necessary for a healthy engine. You really can't go wrong if you use good lubricants, coolants and fluids to start with and have the mindset that these products are designed to perform their best "as is" and adding ANYTHING "extra" may even be detrimental. I think this is also a reason to not use products that barely meet standards.

        As for additives, I guess the only few I make exception for are fuel injection/combustion chamber cleaners. But even then adding 12 oz. of some solvent to one tank of gas is not going to clean 250,000 miles of crud.








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        Re: Slick 50 = Cruel Hoax?? what do you mean??? 200

        its been a while since i read about it, but i do remember there being data that proves that slick 50 actually wears an engine out faster than running straight mineral oil.

        i use mobil 1 in my 22 year old engine since i bought it 2 years ago and it is great. it cleaned the top end up, the engine runs cooler, fantastic stuff. ill never use mineral oils again.

        where i was living i would go to work early in the morning and it would be -10-0 degrees celcius (14-32F), i would come home later in the day and it would be 35-45 degrees celcius (95-113F). no mineral oil could EVER cope with that much variation in temperature.








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          Re: Slick 50 = Cruel Hoax?? what do you mean??? 200

          10W40 would work fine for those conditions. I'm sure synthetic is amazing stuff, but really most of the pollutants in oil come from the combustion chamber (ever seen a engine running on propane? the oil never blackens if tuned correctly). Our older volvo engines were designed for the chracteristics of standard multi-weight oils, they tolerate the discrepencies, in fact they were engineered around them. This is not to say that synth is a bad idea I just wonder if it's worth the extra expense.








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          Re: Slick 50 = Cruel Hoax?? what do you mean??? 200 '86

          Mineral Oil??? explain what you mean? You mean like Baby Oil?? I can see a possible "hoax" but several leading Oil Companies have teamed up with Slick in the latest promotion as anyone who walks into a part's store of late. I am puzzled that Quaker State Oil would cause their reputation (what reputation???) to be tied to Slick if Slick is So Bad.

          I'd guess that Quaker State and the other oil companies "bundleing" with Slick are in deep doodoo financially in order to save their flagging income. I am not convinced that my Volvo will die due to Slick anytime soon. However I will probably never use it again. My oil does look wonderfully Clean however with the Hastings filter and lighter colored oil (

          3 quarts Quaker, 1 quart Slick) hmmmmm. My engine's mortal anyway: maybe Slick is like a dose of good whisky or Hootch or something like that. Live shorter, but having more fun???

          My car seems pretty peppy even after driving the rustfree newer Volvo with 60 K less miles.








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            Re: Slick 50 = Cruel Hoax?? what do you mean??? 200 '86

            Well, it just happens that Pennsoil/Quaker State are the proud owners of Slick 50---








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            Re: Slick 50 = Cruel Hoax?? what do you mean??? 200

            > Mineral Oil??? explain what you mean?

            Dino oil, refined crude oil, the stuff they dig out of the ground.

            as opposed to synthetic oil which is created by a chemical process, much like modern plastics.

            mineral oils have a large amount of varying size particles, some are large, some are small, some have a high boiling point, some have a low boiling point (relatively). during typical engine these particles all behave in different ways, some will stick to the walls, some will simply vapourise.

            Because synth is made in a chemical process it is all the same. it does exactly what it was created to do, stick to metal parts, flow well at varying temperatures, lubricate bearings.









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    Re: Fram filters, waterpumps and other misc.....Slick 50 for instance!!!? 200 '86

    Congratulations on successful WP install. Sounds as if that old WP was the wrong one and should never have been installed. Was the belt running on a an angle?

    Return the Slick50. The only thing slick about it is the advertising.

    Synthetic oil does not need to be changed as frequently as dino oil and therefore will actually be cheaper to use. Not sure if I understand your comment about dirt.







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