(for a 1980 externally regulated 242)

When replacing my alternator, I ran into some problems. Instalation was somewhat straightforward. The ground wire and the negative wires are all in the right places. However, I had some trouble with the positive end, which consists of two parts: the fork, and the bolt-on wire. The bolt on wire is simple as well, and can really only go in one location. However, the fork actually has two possibilities: one labled + and the other B+. Should this make a difference? The two separate teeth look identical otherwise.

Anyway, cleary something is wrong. When I jump-start it, it starts right away and all the dashlights disappear as they are supposed to. However, within roughly two minutes or so, the car stops and the amp light comes on. Now what is exceptionaly peculiar about the situation is that the rest of the dash lights don't illuminate as they did when I first encountered alternator problems (only the amp light stays on), and the amp light stays on regardless of whether the keys are in the ignition or not. It basically stays on until the battery dies. Furthermore, after the car dies within the two minutes, it won't even crank when I try and start it up again.

So, I have no idea what is going on. Help.

Thanks,

MAX

Max -

" However, I had some trouble with the

> positive end, which consists of two parts: the fork, and the bolt-on

> wire. The bolt on wire is simple as well, and can really only go in

> one location. However, the fork actually has two possibilities: one

> labled + and the other B+. Should this make a difference? The two

> separate teeth look identical otherwise. "

The bolt-on wire carries the charging current from the alternator stator windings to the battery. No problem there. There is also a wire that connects to the frame of the alternator to the block. The alternator is isolated from its mount by rubber bushings so a ground jumper is needed.

What exactly do you mean by "the fork" ? Is the alternator a re-built? A salvage unit? How are the brushes in length? Do the slip rinigs look good and smooth?

The terminal marked D+/61 gets a red wire that goes into the harness along with the fat red one. There is also in that harness a wire that goes to the oil pressure sensor. I think it is black.

I converted an external regulator system to internal on my 1979 by changing the brush holder unit to a brush/regulator unit. Fit the same and much easier to work with.

What happens if you disconnect a battery terminal when the ignition is off and the amp light is on? Big spark? Re-post with what you find.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Bob, thanks for the response-

As I type this message, I am actually nearly 100 miles away from my car: it's dead at home, and I am in college right now. In other words, I do not have the convenience of going to the garage and looking at it until this friday. For this reason, the D+/61 that you referred to could be the same wires I am talking about. Let me clarify: the positive assembly (red wires) is where I am confused. There is of course, the bolt on (fatter)wire which is self explanitory. Like you said however, there is an additional (smaller) red wire. On my rebuilt alternator, this plugs into a tooth. The best way I can describe it is a .25 cm square--the wire has the female, the alternator has the male. The problem is that there are two possibilities (on the alternator) for this: One is marked + and the other D+ (I originally said B+, but this is probably just bad memory on my part). I don't remember there being more than one possibility on the old alternator; however, this was identical and non-original/rebuilt in terms of everything else.

The only other factor I can remember is that the wires themselves are quite old, so some of the insulation is gone, thereby exposing the copper.

Thanks for any additional help!

Max (if this makes no sense, let me know)