I was wondering if anybody knew how to do a rear brake job on a 240 wagon? Mine have been squeaking lately and I heard it was a breeze... Thoughts?

As everyone says, it is one of the easiest Pad exchange you will ever do on any car. Chris uses a C clamp to put the pins back in, I use a half inch extention about 12" long and I pivot the extension off of a nice solid piece that Volvo was nice enough to provide. Just pivot the pins in by hand, no tools necassary. This way you don't have to fight with the coil springs.

THe other posts were for ATE rear calipers, apparently volvos can have girling rears as well, the difference is the girlings have little coter pins securing the dowels that hold the pads in position ( you really should get at least a Haynes manual).

"This step makes the job more complicated and if it's your first time working on brakes don't bother."

My opinion is that if you are going to change the pads and the disk surface is scored you should reface the disks. This involves removing the caliper mount bolts so that you can hold them aside while you pull the disk off ( hang the calipers from a piece of string attached to the spring so that you don't bend or break the hard line attached to the back of the caliper). Take the disks to an auto supply store that turns disks and get them to take just enough off the surface to get rid of the grooves, make sure they don't take too much 'cause if the disk gets too thin it has to be replaced (check specs in manual!) then reinstall.

'WARNING!!!!!! BRAKES ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY FEATURE YOUR CAR HAS.!!!!!!

IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBTS ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING SEEK OUT MORE INFORMATION!!!

I DON'T MEAN TO BE CONDESCENDING BUT I GOT SOME E'S THAT I WASN'T CLEAR ENOUGH ON SAFETY ISSUES.

IF YOU ARE NOT 100% SURE OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING GET A PRO TO VERIFY YOUR WORK.

DO NOT DRIVE A CAR WITH FAULTY BRAKES!!!!

A little trick on the rear guide pins is to press them into place with an appropriately-sized C-Clamp. It totally removes having to drive them in from behind/through the coils of springs. The right sized clamp can be angled to a flat part of the caliper on the front, and over the guide pin on the back. After that, just turn the thing closed, and you'll get a nice fit.

Also grease the guide pins lightly to promote pad movement.

http://www.mercedesshop.com/e_class_brakejob.htm covers at least the major steps to a brake job. Keep in mind that this is for that other brand of high-end conservative car. (Notice there are no empty beer cans around the car. And the weekend mechanic pictured wears gloves and coveralls...over his Jos. A. Bank pinpoint collar shirt and silk necktie.)

It is a breeze. No special tools needed at all. Just some brake cleaner fluid, nail, and a hammer. If it is your first time, I would suggest getting a Hanyes (cheaper) or Bently manual. Go for it.

Yes, it should be obvious if you remove the wheel. Remove the retaining pins with a thin punch and remove the spring. Just use channel locks to compress the pistons, squeezing the pad to the caliper to give a little free play to the pad. Then pull the pads. If the pistons get in the way again, and they will tend to, pry them back into the caliper without damaging the seal. Use something like the tire iron in your Volvo tool kit to put slow pressure on the piston. Then insert the pads with the anti-squeal shims and maybe some "disc brake quiet" on the shim. Replace the springs and tap the pins all the way back in. The latter is not so obvious and the pins must come all the way through to the out board side where you will see then protrude.

With a little practice you will do rear brakes in 10 minutes a side.