I just bought a 1983 245 for my daughters, and it has been one problem after another. First it wouldn't pass the emission test (after five tries, finally got it thru) then a leaky p.s. hose, then two flat tires.now, after the p.s. hose dumped fluid all over, I sprayed the area with degreaser and then carefully poured hot water over the area being careful NOT to get it on the starter. Well, I went to drive it and the starter engaged while the engine was running,what fun! Well, I figured the wiring or the starter got wet, let it dry out and maybe it will be alright. Well,it seemed to be alright after sitting for a day.Then they were out in it tonight, and it did the same thing, the starter engages when the ignition is in the first position without turning it to the right until it stops.Ignition switch? wiring harness? bad starter? I have been driving these cars for 25 years, and I have never seen a bad starter on one. The worst part is that I am sure that they have lost faith in the car.Anyway, I have a spare starter, and ign. switch. Please help!!!Something is giving the starter the false signal to engage when the engine is running. When the key is turned to the off position the engine shuts off like it should.

Goober,

I was recently removing an alarm system from a '84 240 that had really been butchered when it was installed. In the process of trying to figure everything out I had sent 12V to the nuetral safety switch. When I did this the car would start in the "key on" position. The wires were in the harness that runs from the dash down to the floor and over to the shifter.

This car is a junkyard rescue with only 140k on it. My 16yr old daughter is driving it now and she loves it.

My 84 245 does the same thing, I'm in the process of trying to find a used, but in good condition, wiring harness. I can empathize, my car started acting up an hour after I bought it! The new harness goes for about $450. Ouch...

ed did you try http://www.linkline.com/personal/dbarton/ he has used harnesses for 100 to 150

Jason,

Thanks for the suggestion. Yes I tried Dave first....he is out of stock :(

After seeing what a "real" harness is suppose to look like I can safely say mine is compleatly hacked together. Any illusions I had about patching it are historical at this point. I am strangly excited about the prospect of putting in a shiney new harness though....haven't turned a wrench in years...forgot I enjoyed it!

Best of all the guy I bought the care from is willing to split the repair costs!

This sure sounds like a case of crumbling engine harness.

Look at the engine wiring harness, particularly where it connects to the chassis harness. You should see a big gray plastic plug near the firewall and rear of the valve cover where these two harnesses connect.

Look carefully at the insulation around wires from the plug going toward the engine. You may see that the plastic insulation has dried out and is crumbling away. This can allow adjacent conductors to short together, causing all types if weird symptoms.

This is also one of the causes of engine fires.

If you are excited by the challenge of installing a new wiring harness, as Ed Colbeth obviously is, go for it.

On my 250K 87 wagon, there were clearly only four wires that were bad, the four coming out of the large connector mounted on the firewall. The other 30 or so wires in the harness were OK. Whoever manufactured those four wires, cooked up a bad batch of insulation, or several bad batches, between 1982 and 1987. It is either that or a design flaw in that large grey connector. I know from repairing an old Kenmore washing machine, that if an electrical connection is marginal, the insulation on the wire coming off this connection will dry out and crack.

I was able to replace the two short wires, using a "pull thru" technique. The two long ones, which run under the front of the engine into the alternator area, I replaced by running two new wires across the firewall and up along the passenger side fender. I split open a six foot piece of thin, black, rubber hose and pushed these two wires inside this hose for protection and appearance. I also replaced the "suspect" grey connector with four insulated, spade type connectors. All this took about four man hours, about $ 10 of materials and a little soldering. This was about eight months ago and the wagon is still running fine.

In all honesty, I must admit that before this, I replaced a starter motor that probably did not need replacing. When that starter motor kicks in while you are driving 30 mph, it makes one hell of a noise.

I just replaced my harness and the worst parts were not visible untill I cut all of the black plastic off the wiring harness. I initially thought the problem was only at the connectors on the firewall. The worst part is along the block under the intake manifold, and you can't see it until you take the sheath off. Eight of the harness wires were completely bare and bundled together. These included the starter ignition and alternator wires. So if you want your car to be dependable you should get a new harness.

Goober:

The problem is at the gray harness connector near the fire wall....I had this same problem. See if you can seperate the wires so they dont short together just as a temperary fix. I bought a new harness for $275.00 US from a place called VPI on the far west side of the Houston Metroplex. He might ship out but I am not sure. Good Luck.

Kyle

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