240 DL Starts when cold. Will not start when hot. Has been tuned and Injectors cleaned. This did not help. One shop recomends a "FUEL SENSOR"

$300 someone else a FUel relay. Any help would be appreciated.

Harry:

Another possibility (than those already mentioned) would be the flywheel RPM sensor. Located right at the top of the bell housing, these first tend to fail intermittently when hot, then fail altogether. About $40 or so from www.alloemvolvoparts.com and easy to change out; one 10mm bolt.

I certiantly woudn't go to the shop that recommended the "Fuel Sensor".

Maybe the engine temperature sensor (Under the intake manifold, around cylinder 3) is bad so the FI thinks it's cold and floods the engine on hot starts. Happened to my friends 86 240.

Rene

Rene,

Thank you for the feedback. That sounds like exactly what my problem is. It still sounds expensive if the mechanic has to remove the heads. I'll have a discussion with him before having the work done. Knowing a little bit about it ahead of time will save $$$.

Harry

BC is dead on. Hope that helps,

Rene

Harry -

(1) The engine temp sensor can be replaced without removing the head, or much of anything else, either. Go to an on-line parts house and get a price for one B4 talking to your mechanic. BTW - if that's the same emch who talked of the fuel sensor, find another.

(2) Don Foster is a Volvo owner and Brickster who has put out a rather excellent descripton, with pictures, of re-soldering the soldered parts of almost any relay. The solder cracks over time which causes weird things to go awry.

Welcome to the board, aka BB.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

An oxygen sensor? What's a fuel sensor? My 89 does that sometime when I use 87 octane gas.

Ask Don Foster about soldering the fuel pump relay.

I'm new user at this forum...Who is Don Foster? Thanks,

Sorry about that. It would be an oxygen sensor. Did Foster's soldering solve your problem?

No my fuel pump relay was fine, so I did not solder it. Somehow my hot starting problem was related to using 87 octane. It has not done it since.

If your o2 is bad, the car runs rich, black soot at the tail pipe. I doubt it can an O2 sensor. I never had any problems (like that) when my o2 went bad.

I have heard about an rmp sensor causing this.

Thank you for the information. Don Foster's suggestion about soldering the fpr ended up being my problem (the mechanic found a small crack using a magnifing class and he said it cranks fine now). I appreciate all the help I've been given from this forum. I'll spread the word.

Harry