Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 1/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 10/2010 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

nuts on rear sway bar 200 1987

I just took the tires off and realized I'm either gonna need a deep 19mm socket or a impact wrench or both. Are these things possible to take off by hand with a 3/8 drive 19mm deep socket or are they really torqued on there?

Probably the best thing is going to be some closed 6 point wrenches and some heat instead of this silly 3/8 socket wrench. "I knew I should have bought that set of wrenches yesterday" he says as he smacks himself.

I'm all the way out in MD away from my shop in CA with a few tools here and there.









  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

from the guy who just spent 2 hours on that job... 200 1987

Soak the spacer tube between the shock bottom and the inners side of the trailing arm. If this guy is rusted, it will bind the long bolt and you can beat init all day without getting it out.

The solution is to rotate that spacer tube to where you can see the slit along the side. Hold a box wrench on the head of the bolt, wedgeing the tool against the axle. Then tap a screwdriver of chisel tip into the tube's seam to spread it open enough to allow fee movement (yeah, right!) of the bolt.

Test for movement, be lightly clamping and holding the tube using a slip joint pliers while turning the bolt head. Work things bach and forth to grind up the rust. Then, maybe, the bolt will tap out.

I generally need s long, thin drift of come sort to knock out this bolt, rusted in place or not.

Try to remove the top shock moount first to eliminate the vertical force on the lower bolt-shcok-spacer assembly.

My trick for hand tooling off those 19 and 17mm bolts is (don't try this at home, folks!).....I slip the box wrench over the bolt and bang on the other end with a hammer.

Totally unsafe, but it works.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Re: nuts on rear sway bar 200 1987

Soak the nuts for a day with Liquid wrench (not WD 40) Others suggest PB

blaster...(I've never used it)Soak the nuts and PUSH AND PULL the wrench TO LOOSEN AND TIGHTEN...THE OBJECT IS TO WORK THE PENETRATING INTO THE DRY THREADS UNDER THE NUT.

Anyways...If all you have is 3/8" put a Box end wrench over the emd of the 3/8" wratchet,(the bigger the better) and use it as a leverage tool to loosen the nuts (similar to using a piece of pipe for leverage) I like this method because you can select from diff size box end wrenches depending on how much room you have for leverage tools. This was taught to me by a retired Chevy mechanic who lived across the street from me many years ago. It's gotten me out of a jam many times.

Good luck,

Jack W.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Re: nuts on rear sway bar 200 1987

no needing of the impact wrench, but much needing of 1/2" drive - toss the 3/8" stuff out...







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.