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ICQ>
It is pretty easy Fred. You need to remove the outer tie rod nut, then carefully separate the outer rod joint without damaging the rubber grease cup. Simple screw type ball joint separators are available and work well ($10-15). Then pull back the boot on the tie rod. I think it will pull toward the outside of the car and expose the inner tie rod. It will come free of the end disc on ZF racks. The inner rod joins the rack at a thickened nut that has flat surfaces for an adjustable wrench. Just unscrew it, and keep the thin washer. Unscrew the outer rod from the inner rod after loosening the lock nut (actually, do the lock hut first of all steps), counting the turns and put it on the new inner rod and reinstall. The only trick is to put a little pressure on the bottom of the tie rod end joint with a jack to keep it from turning when you replace the tie rod end nut. It will grab under the pressure and snug down nicely to torque. If your steering wheel was dead on center and is now off, you may want to back up and take the nut off and adjust the outer rod a turn or two. This will simulate an accurate alignment. I have gotten away with this very nicely. If you are around Clearwater FL, come on over and we will do it in 30 minutes not counting the "alignment".
Bob
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