Just found a 1993 960 with 160K on the clock. One owner and most if not all of the records look good. No rust, paint OK with a few dings and scratches, new Goodyears. Everything seems to work OK but the brakes are out of lining material. I can get the car for ~$4,000 but don't know much about the year model or the 6 cylinder. All my experience is with mid-late 80's with the 4 banger. Pro's ? Con's ? Gas mileage ? Will this thing do the 300K+ that the 4 bangers do? Should I jump into it or away from it. Thanks for all advice........

Not much more for me to add either. Seems like these RFIs are coming quite reqularly now. I would suggest you check out previous threads in this regard. I could also recommend one other thing: Have the cooling system pressure checked on a stone cold engine. Let is sit there under the most pressure allowable for as long as the mechanic will permit...several hours. Then see if the system has lost pressure. Might me a sign of engine block porsity.

Otherwise, put a little money aside for those first two tickets, until you learn to control yourself with your new toy...;>)

Hi Barry,

Please excuse the lengthy reply !

I'm biased having just bought a 1992 965, but I think they deserve serious consideration. A full Volvo service history is very very desirable in order to ensure longevity - the 960 is far more complex than the 940.

The bodywork is very corrosion resistant, being basically the same as the ealier 700 series which are in the main still rust free after 15 years or so. I'd do the usual checksfor engine wear, gearbox operation, brake operation, electric accessory functionality, etc. and pay particular attention to the following weak points:

- engine block porosity - the 91-95 cars had a block casting/maching problem leading to the water galleries in the engines being too close to the block exterior. Not all cars ar affected, and it seems that the use of genuine Volvo coolant at the recommended 50% mix prevents the problem. I'm guessing that minor corrosion inside the galleries is all that is required for the leak to start. It usually shows up under the exhaust manifold as water seepage, so look for the leak after a test drive, and look for any DIY fix with JB Weld or similar.

- 3.0 24v engine - is quite hi-tech and prefers synthetic oil. Oil changes every 5k miles MAX. Use only Volvo oil filters - they catch much smaller particles than popular aftermarket brands.

- cambelt - change intervals depends upon engine number. Some need 30k mile changes, some 40k, some 70k - depends upon whether engine was modified by dealer to use the later (wider) cambelt. DO NOT run the car beyond the recommended interval - they DO snap and you WILL most likely need 24 valves, a couple of pistons and cylinder head repairs. It could easily cost more than the car is worth.

- DO NOT use engine PTFE additives - this engine doesn't like them.

- radiators are a weak point - they were fitted with plastic tanks originally, which used to crack - a metal tank'd radiator is good.

- air conditioning - the vacuum plumbing which controls the vents is prone to leaking, leading to the airflow being directed to the footwells under hard acceleration. A straightforward but awkward fix.

- air conditioning - the early systems were filled with Freon gas which has CFCs and frequently leaks with lack of use - it needs to be run frequently year round. You can convert the system to use the later R134a gas, but this runs at a higher pressure so new hardware is required, and the pump must be in good condition.

- brake discs/rotors - tend to warp. An easy fix, but parts can be expensive in the US.

- front door anti-slam rods - tend to come unbolted. If they fall out when its windy the door can slam forward and snap the hinges, creasing the door and wing. This is from experience :( I've found the passenger side loose on 3x 900s that I've owned.

- auto gearbox - gear selector inhibitor switch tends to fail preventing movement of the selector from Park. The switch is located soas to collect all sorts of road muck and tends to last around 40k miles or so. Replacement is fairly straightforwad if you have arms like an ape - bloody awkward otherwise!

- auto gearbox - change fluid and clean filter every 2-3 years to prevent poor/jerky gearchanges and to prolong life. Some advocate use of synthetic ATF, so dont.

- water pump - tends to fail after 70k miles

I think thats about it - no doubt the list will be added to in due course. The 960 is a great car, but it MUST have quality servicing to remain as sweet and reliable as it can be. Its well worth the hassle, believe me - I've owned most version of the 900 and the 960 is easily the best :)

All the best,

Uel

Barry,

The reply by Uel is excellent. I have a 92 960 and he hit upon almost everything I have experienced. These are great cars, I had a 97 s90 also but these older cars perform better.Make sure you check the block for coolant loss, when they weep slowly,the only way you can tell is by smell.It might take weeks before the res. will tell you the coolant is low.See when the coolant was changed last and who did it and what type of coolant was used.It starts slow so and there is always a history. The only correct way to fix a weeping block is to pull the engine and welding it.

"The aluminum block compounds things since if you put any kind

of stop leak in, it will open back up when the engine cools. Aluminum does

not repair well unless welded since the coefficient of expansion of the

metal will continue to work against any epoxy or glue type repair. It is

also very hard to get all the coolant and oil off the area to repair." (author Rick Sparks,previous owner with a weeping block)

Ask the owner if he or she has had coolant problems and follow this up by reveiwing his or her service records with the dealer or independent.If you find a number of compression checks without much done, look closely.

Joe southern NH

Hi There Uel,

Thanks bunches for your response. Sounds like the 960 has some of the quirks that are typical of other cars. This is a one owner car and most of the miles are highway miles. I'm a little concerned about the miles at 159K and don't know what to expect as far as fuel ecomomy. I'm very tempted to go for it and be happy.

Thanks again for all your excellent advice.

bc

I get 26-28mpg, 20mpg city in my '92 965. Mine is about to hit 142K miles and is running fine, perfect compression, etc. There was a recent LONG thread on the 960...look through some of the posts...there's a lot of good info. in them.

Lance

No problem Barry.

If you're worried about the mileage, you could look through the oil filler cap - you can see the condition of a couple of lobes on one camshaft, which can give you a reasonable indication of general internal wear. Alternatively, a full compression test can be undertaken but its unlikely that the current owner would allow that unless you pay a garage to do it.

Good luck with whatever you decide to purchase.

Uel