you may recall I have a car with a frozen e-brake. The little shoes have become one with the rotor.

So the rotor won't come off.

Here's what I need to know, as the pics in Bentley aren't quite clear:

It *appears* that the actuator is not mounted to anything. and it feels like the parking brake cable is what's holding me up.

*SO*, if I remove the cable at the parking brake handle (inside) will I be able to pull it entirely through the sleeve? IOW, will I be able to pull off the rotor, the guts of thr e-brake, and the entire cable off as one welded together unit?

Or will the cable not pull out of the sleeve? should I perhaps just sever the cable, jacket and all, somewhere along the axle? I am perfectly willing to sacrifice e-brake function, as this is a major beater and equipped with automatic tranny.

Please help - this car needs to be driveable before the snow flies so I can save my virtually rust-free '86 244.

I dunno man, it sounds like you are up sh*t creek. Have you come to any conclusions yet?

I think if you cut the cable, you still are not going to be able to pull the rotor+shoes+etc off, because the inner part of the shoes are not going to clear the hub, and you won't be able to pull the axle out because all this junk is still in the way. I am talking about the part of the brake shoe that is perpindicular to the brake shoe surface, and is parallel to the hub surface.

If I were in your position, I would be considering taking a grinder to the rotor and breaking it into pieces to get it off. And I wouldn't cut the brake cable just yet, because you might not have to. I dunno how tough the cast iron will be to grind, but it doesn't look like you have much choice. And use a BF hammer, too!

Good luck, and definitely let us know how it turns out!

Greg Wong

I just removed my rear disks and even with a functioning e-brake it was a pain. Cutting the cable will definitly allow you to pull the entire assembly out. I would use a slide hammer and a wedge of wood. Hook the hammer through the little hole and have somebody push in the wedge as you slide hammer, also pen., oil at the hub nd bolt connections. But you know, if it's seized and you are going to disable it anyhow, just cut the cable near the backing plate and drive the car, the shoes themselves don't rust to the drum so even if the actuator is siezed it should all work loose.

> the shoes themselves don't rust to the drum so even if

> the actuator is siezed it should all work loose.

The shoes and the rotor are one. Not even kidding. A chisel won't break them apart.

"shoes and rotors are one"

You must have had no lining left on your shoes?

So how did you get it open? I'll be there again one day so I might as well learn now.

Can you drive the car? The power of the motor should overwhelm the emergency brake pads. If you loosen off your cable you should be able to pull the pads and rotor off. The only thing holding the pads on in the horizontal plane is 2 flimsy springs which snap off really easily. If something is frozen in there I would bet on the shoe lever. You might want to take out the bolts for the shoe lever bracket. this will give you more play in the bracket. are you sure the rotor is not rusted to the hub?

Evan -

Are you saying that the wheel rotates OK? If yes, the e-brake shoes must not be frozen to the rotor, right? Maybe rusted on to the backing plate. I assume you have already tried to whack it from behind the plate using a heavy hammer or something.

Is there a way to get off even the whole half-shaft assembly? They are pretty standard across 240's, maybe a swap would be easiest.

I don't thing the e-brake cable will slip through the sheath b/c of the way the front end has a terminus to be held by the brake handle system.

I feel your frustration. Wish I could offer more.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

> Are you saying that the wheel rotates OK?

Nope. Not 1 mm. Looks like cutting the cable is gonna be it.

-E

Evan, just replaced wife's parking brake cable last weekend. The new cable inserted into the cabin via underneath and tightens down with the nuts at the handle. You should be able to remove it that way. Sounds like you still will have to cut at the rotor assess.Good pluck.