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Brake lights still out, changed switch 200 1987

Ok, I changed the brake light switch and they are still out. Some one said something about a brake light failure sensor being out or something?








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Re: Brake lights still out, changed switch 200 1987

OK... for starters, are you absolutely sure there is power to the green wire at the switch ???

I had this EXACT same problem at work last night. Backed into a parking spot and noticed I had no brake lights.

The problem on mine was corrossion on fuse 7 (87' 240 sedan).

The fuse and holder were all chalky, and simply didn't make sufficient electrical contact. I even measured 13 volts on the fuse itself, but not at the terminal on the side of the fuse panel. I disconnected my battery, and cleaned the wiz out of the fuse holder with a brush and alchahol (and later some spray contact cleaner).

Re-installed the spare fuse and re-connected the battery and voila, brake lights.

The windshield had leaked and water dripped down effecting about seven of the fuses/sockets.(it was cracked and leaking at the lower drivers corner when i bought the car and i had it replaced the very next day... no more leaks, but now I see I have a bit of clean-up left to do).








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Re: Brake lights still out, changed switch 200 1987

Doug -

Can't recal where you are on the odyessy towards having lit lights, but I must ask if you have tested for power at the brake light switch?

On the switch, the GN-R lead is from fuse #7, and the BL-R lead goes to the Bulb Failure Warning Sensor (BFWS) switch terminal #9. From the BFWS Terminal #5 BL-SB lead goes to high-level light, terminal #11 Y lead does to the right side lamp, terminal #10 Y-GR lead goes to left side lamp.

Note: SB wires are black. It's a Swedish thing.

There is a 9-pin connector in the circuit where the dash harness connects to the going-to-the-rear harness. It is located behind the flooring and/or under-dash pad above the driver's left toe. Check for voltage here, too. Check that the connections are tight, not oxidized. Position #6 is the Y-GR lead, #7 is the Y lead.

If the culprit turnes out to be the BFWS, there is a new P/N beginning in 1986, 1362278-2. Try one from a salvage yard, or contact Evan R. at evanr@pathwaynet.com, he's a Brickster and handles used parts, too.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)








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