So from my understanding the latest 240 turbo (1984.5 aka 1985) was equiped with the B21FT engine and not the B230FT. What is the difference between the 2 (besides the size and the location of the flame trap) as far as reliability and such? If I am familar with the B230 series will I be lost with the B21? How rare are the 1985(1984.5) 242 turbos? And finally I assume the B21 used the Garret Turbo and not the mitsu since the mitsu came in 90 right?

I've got these on classifieds, I apologize for posting them here but the topic of 242ti's (specifically those at around $1K) presented itself. I've got a couple of 242ti's for sale. One silver and one gold the '84 is silver the '82 gold. What follows are my blurbs for each:

The '82 was purchased new by a Volvo mechanic who eventually sold it to his nephew, who really didn't use it, he garaged it, so I was able to buy it. It has a new paint job which is the original color, gold, it has a few small bubbles of rust at the rear bumper and on just under the windshield, typical. I put a bit over 2k into it- new clutch (it's a standard), ball joints, tie rod ends, motor mounts, tune up, new radiator etc. All of the glass is in excellent shape, it has a light tint, the AC works, the tan leather is in very good shape, it has an armrest, an in-dash cd player with 4 new speakers. Factory plastic floor trays, the tires are practically new, the rims are all in very good condition and the center caps are all present. The interior is very nice, the dash has been covered with an IPD plastic cap, leather is in very good condition for it's age, I did cover the front seats with IPD seat covers, as well it's got a new IPD leather steering wheel glove. It's a very nice car. Good and tight. Currently the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt (rebuild kit $26.50)or replaced (new master cylinder $85) you can stop just fine but I can tell it's getting spongy.

The current problem is that the wiring harness is grounding out by the alternator causing the engine to run off the battery which inevitably runs low and eventually makes the car die too, so the wiring at the alternator needs to be repaired, or better, to have the wiring harness replaced.

Wiring harnesses on the '80's 240s are notorious for shedding it's insulation...I bought a new wiring harness for it but haven't installed it, however I can include it with the sale of the car. I replaced the harness on my '84 242 myself, not too bad of a job, I just haven't moved to do it on the '82) . $3200.00 firm.

Now the '84's story: It is my daily driver I communte 50 miles in it everyday.

Car is silver with black leather interior, the front seats are rough and dry, the back seat is in better condition but has rips in the seat bottom.
I recommend having the motor mounts replaced as it would just be a better ride. I have the parts for the engine mounts and tranny mount, which I'll gladly throw in, and I could arrange to have the job done for you if you can pre-pay my mechanic, I could have the car all ready for you to pick up and drive home. Tranny is standard and clashes when shifted into first at except at low speeds, pops out of second when throttle is released (related to motor and tranny mounts being worn out).

It needs to have one of the manifold gaskets replaced (#4) this could be done by me or the mechanic prior to you picking it up. Car also has a warped rotor (not sure which one, if you've ever done brake work, it's pretty easy to replace the rotor does not prevent you from stopping effectively just makes the brake pedal vibrate slightly) and the power steering pump leaks and needs to be replaced. I installed a tail spoiler from a saab on it but have since removed it so the edge of the trunk lid has 4 small holes in it as well as dried adhesive, would be easy to switch out trunk lid as the car needs a paint job anyway. Well worth the $1000.00 I'm asking.

I've owned the car for a year and have driven it daily until the last two months. The car has a new wiring harness installed, while I was in there I replaced the vacuum hoses as well. the tires are OK, probably another year left on them. I recently put new wires/plugs/rotor/cap/ and coil. The AC works, the sunroof works, the electric windows and door locks all work and been recently lubricated. I've recently replaced the in-tank fuel filter, both fuel filters function. The turbo had been rebuilt just before I got it and a new radiator installed as well as timing belt. The turbo rims have some curb rash and one rim has a gash in it from PO, all wheels are true.

I have changed the ignition switch as the old one was failing. All the glass is good, yet the windshield has a crack on the passenger side but does not inhibit view and is not noticable/annoying. Paint is rough, lots of time in the sun,which is mostly why the leather is so dry. Carpet is faded and could be re-died. It's a good car that does need some specific stuff but is better than a beater and could be really good in the right hands.


If you are interested in one or both cars you can call me at 225-342-8160 during the day and 225-692-7030 at night or email joshlasserre@hotmail.com. I'm located just south of Baton Rouge, Louisiana.

I've got these on classifieds, I apologize for posting them here but the topic of 242ti's (specifically those at around $1K) presented itself. I've got a couple of 242ti's for sale. One silver and one gold the '84 is silver the '82 gold. What follows are my blurbs for each:

The '82 was purchased new by a Volvo mechanic who eventually sold it to his nephew, who really didn't use it, he garaged it, so I was able to buy it. It has a new paint job which is the original color, gold, it has a few small bubbles of rust at the rear bumper and on just under the windshield, typical. I put a bit over 2k into it- new clutch (it's a standard), ball joints, tie rod ends, motor mounts, tune up, new radiator etc. All of the glass is in excellent shape, it has a light tint, the AC works, the tan leather is in very good shape, it has an armrest, an in-dash cd player with 4 new speakers. Factory plastic floor trays, the tires are practically new, the rims are all in very good condition and the center caps are all present. The interior is very nice, the dash has been covered with an IPD plastic cap, leather is in very good condition for it's age, I did cover the front seats with IPD seat covers, as well it's got a new IPD leather steering wheel glove. It's a very nice car. Good and tight. Currently the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt (rebuild kit $26.50)or replaced (new master cylinder $85) you can stop just fine but I can tell it's getting spongy.

The current problem is that the wiring harness is grounding out by the alternator causing the engine to run off the battery which inevitably runs low and eventually makes the car die too, so the wiring at the alternator needs to be repaired, or better, to have the wiring harness replaced.

Wiring harnesses on the '80's 240s are notorious for shedding it's insulation...I bought a new wiring harness for it but haven't installed it, however I can include it with the sale of the car. I replaced the harness on my '84 242 myself, not too bad of a job, I just haven't moved to do it on the '82) . $3200.00 firm.

Now the '84's story: It is my daily driver I communte 50 miles in it everyday.

Car is silver with black leather interior, the front seats are rough and dry, the back seat is in better condition but has rips in the seat bottom.
I recommend having the motor mounts replaced as it would just be a better ride. I have the parts for the engine mounts and tranny mount, which I'll gladly throw in, and I could arrange to have the job done for you if you can pre-pay my mechanic, I could have the car all ready for you to pick up and drive home. Tranny is standard and clashes when shifted into first at except at low speeds, pops out of second when throttle is released (related to motor and tranny mounts being worn out).

It needs to have one of the manifold gaskets replaced (#4) this could be done by me or the mechanic prior to you picking it up. Car also has a warped rotor (not sure which one, if you've ever done brake work, it's pretty easy to replace the rotor does not prevent you from stopping effectively just makes the brake pedal vibrate slightly) and the power steering pump leaks and needs to be replaced. I installed a tail spoiler from a saab on it but have since removed it so the edge of the trunk lid has 4 small holes in it as well as dried adhesive, would be easy to switch out trunk lid as the car needs a paint job anyway. Well worth the $1000.00 I'm asking.

I've owned the car for a year and have driven it daily until the last two months. The car has a new wiring harness installed, while I was in there I replaced the vacuum hoses as well. the tires are OK, probably another year left on them. I recently put new wires/plugs/rotor/cap/ and coil. The AC works, the sunroof works, the electric windows and door locks all work and been recently lubricated. I've recently replaced the in-tank fuel filter, both fuel filters function. The turbo had been rebuilt just before I got it and a new radiator installed as well as timing belt. The turbo rims have some curb rash and one rim has a gash in it from PO, all wheels are true.

I have changed the ignition switch as the old one was failing. All the glass is good, yet the windshield has a crack on the passenger side but does not inhibit view and is not noticable/annoying. Paint is rough, lots of time in the sun,which is mostly why the leather is so dry. Carpet is faded and could be re-died. It's a good car that does need some specific stuff but is better than a beater and could be really good in the right hands.


If you are interested in one or both cars you can call me at 225-342-8160 during the day and 225-692-7030 at night or email joshlasserre@hotmail.com. I'm located just south of Baton Rouge, Louisiana.

The B21FT had the forged crank and con rods of the early anvil-like engines. In the B230FT they are cast, not as strong. Also the K jet fuel injection system is continuous injection and there is a constant idle system as well. B21FTs do not ever seem to show cylinder wear when inspected by removing the head. Unlike the B23FT (in my experience) a thinner walled bored out B21FT, and I do not know about the B230FT in that regard yet, thankfully. The Garrett is used on all 240Ts and in my experience a nicely tuned B21FT, say an 85 244Ti is a real rocket with unbelievable boost at 3000-5000 rpm. Not sure if the 780Ti (in 90-91 the most pwerful of the B230FTs) is slower or just smoother, and deceptive.

Was there no 2 door for 85? Was the 84 2 door intercooled? The blue book value of a 85 or 84 turbo 240 is about 1100 dollars, could one actually find a decent 242 turbo for less than 1000?

Thing is I am about to go back to graduate school and will probably be super poor for the next 4 to 5 years. So I was considering putting a small amount of money away for the next 2 years to buy a good 2 door turbo volvo for tinkering, especially now that the light is visible at the end of the 91 240 and 90 760 tunnel. I just need to sell my wifes crappy honda civic!!! (The 765Ti is hers).

I know of someone who bought an '84 242 Turbo with under 100K original miles for under $1000. It had an M46, and good paint (had been repainted, body looks straight and no visible rust). That's a rare find, so it may take a while to get a nice 242T, and you will probably pay more than $1000. Not every 242 Turbo from '84 is intercooled, so look for that too. If you find a nice 240 Turbo for about $1000, it might be a good idea to just buy it and add or change what you want.

I don't think anyone mentioned that the compression ratio of the B21FT is 7.5:1 and the B23FT/B230FT is 8.7:1. The higher compression makes for better off-boost power, but the B21FT really gives a good kick when the boost comes on. The '90-on B230FT has the least turbo lag, and is probably the fastest in stock form.
--
Michael -- 1987 244 GT | Volvo 240 Links

For all intents and purposes there was no 242 for 1985.

For a decent 240 (esp. Turbo), be prepared to spend at the very least $2k. I bought my 244 Turbo for $995. It runs great, but it's got its share of issues (a whole lot more liveable than any of the other more $$$ turbos I'd seen tho). Actually this was the cheapest 240 turbo I'd seen advertised, go figure. The closer you get to $3k, the better, usually.

The B21FT should be similar to the B230FT, but you've got a different injection setup completely (Bosch K-Jetronic). If you've spent any time with older 240s (76-82), you'll be right at home.

- alex

if you can find a decent 84 242 turbo for a grand buy it, i've never seen one in gd shape go that low. try 2 to 3.

2K is probably more what I'd expect to pay than 1K. I would think that a 16 year old 2 door foreign car however would only appeal to us volvo freaks.

I paid a little under 2k almost a year ago for my 84 242T. I believe it is the 84.5, factory intercooled model. Officially, the 2 door was not available in 85.
The car I bought has a small bit of rust, but not much, and had a number of things repaired recently or upgraded, such as IPD sway bars, KYB shocks/struts, and lowering springs. The PO had also just replaced the engine wiring harness and the blower motor, and the wheels had been refinished and look great. The car had about 130000 miles when I got it.

They are out there, they just take some looking. When I found mine, it was simply parked in the street with a for sale sign in the window. I was checking CATV lines in the area, and got lucky with the car! The asking price was $2500, I'm sure the owner was just using that as a starting point for bargaining.

Greg