Hello all
I mentioned a couple of weeks ago that my 92 Volvo broke its timing belt. I am not yet convinced that my engine was shot, as I was not going very fast at the time. I have replaced the timing belt, and the crank can turn with it on freely without any trouble- however, I realize that could just be coincidence. Anyway, I want to try to DIY it before I give up the goat and have a machine shop tear it down. I have instructions about the timing that says the timing marks for the crank and both cams should be lined up with the #1 cylinder at TDC. However, when the cams and crank are aligned, the #1 is about halfway down. Any ideas about what this means, and does it indicate any symptons about the condition of the engine? Can I ignore it and do a compression test? I really can't afford to buy new engines or spend more than a couple of hundred dollars, so I have nothing to lose in trying other options. Any help is appreciated.
James

i don't know about other countries, but if a timing belt is changed by a certified volvo-mechanic in belgium within every 30.000 km or something... there's a warranty. you should check this.

uturn.
volvo 960 1992 207000km.

When the timing belt breaks on a 960, valves get bent. I just had the misfortune of breaking a timing belt on my 960. The belt only had 23K on it. When the belt broke I could hear the click of valves and pistons hitting one another. The engine was spinning around 5000 at the time the belt broke, but it wouldn't make any difference if the engine was idling at least some valves are going to get bent.

You do not want to just put on a timing belt and try to start the engine. a bent valve just wont work period.

With the belt broke, the engine spins freely as I found out. The starter would spin the engine over as fast as it could because there is no compression.

Doing this engine is for someone who is above an weekend mechanic(my opinion).
The head has to come off. I would have tackle this myself except in my case I was 500 miles from home. There are two tech manuals on the engine on how to take it apart and put it back together. If you going to do this then get the manuals. Valves aren't cheap for this engine and $200 probably wont buy the valves that need to be replaced.

This is about as positve I can get on this issue.

The crank can turn freely. That isn't too much of a problem. It's the top end that suffers damage. I wouldn't try to run it with bent valves, and it is virtually impossible that you don't have bent valves. You can also ruin the valve guides, seals, or anything else that will be subject to the movement of the valves. Even the camshafts, if one of the valves was driven up while bent and won't go down.

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Chris Herbst, near Chicago, IL. 93 940, 91 240, 90 240, 88 740, 87 240

James
If the #1 CYL. is on top dead center the mark on the ballancer will line up with the referance mark or pointer on the block. If the piston is half way down there is no way the timimg marks will align unles the ballancer spun on the crank shaft and I think that is unlikely. I can't tell you were to look for the marks as I never did find them when changing my timing belt but I rember it being said it was a bear to find.

I think you should recheck the timing marks. maybe someone else can be of more help as far as how they should line up.

My $.02

Well I am sure somebody will come up with a good idea, thats what is great about this board.
You are sure that there is no interference turning that engine over several times by hand and your marks are right on. For the lack of a good idea I would do this: with spark plugs removes, all fuel pump fuses out, I would crank it over with someones hand over the spark plug opening to confirm intake stroke, compression stroke and exhaust stroke. If that checks out reassemble and see if it runs. I would also listen for any tell tale sounds of parts coming in contact or broken. Best of luck

94 960 187k miles
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DanR