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The mechanic set the fuel/air mixture. As the diagram in the other message indicates, it's a rough adjustment for CO levels. The diagram shows a roller on which the plunger sits. The plunger moves up and down to determine the amount of fuel passing through metered slots to the injectors. The screw you turned adjusts the movement of the arm relative to movement of the sensor plate. When the sensor plate moves up, so does the plunger to allow more gas in as more air enters.
If you're going to mess around with air/fuel system (distributor air flow) it will be easier to take the entire assemby out. I've not turned the screw far enough to cause a problem, but I guess it is possible. If it has been turned too far, you probably will have to take everything off. A Haynes Manual gives pretty good information.
If you remove it be careful. The entire assembly comes out without much problem, except I had to lossen bolts, remove bolts to move the power steering pump aside (forward) to have room to get it out. There's a stud on the back near the firewall that you can't see and it's hard to feel.
Once the assembly is out, be careful taking off the distributor. The plunger will fall out if you're not careful, and if it is damaged you willl need to replace the whole distributor, which is expensive. The best price I've seen for a reman is about $500 (except for a guy who gave me a deal). When you clean the plunger, don't scrape it with anything metal, and when you have it clean, don't wipe it - use air to dry it. The tolerances are pretty small and some lint can apparently screw averything up.
Whe you reassemble, it's best to use new o-rings and, if you can, new copper seal washes on the banjo fittings.
All that said, my guess is that the mechanic just made a temporary, lazy repair.
It ain't that bad, but you gotta be careful. Take your time. Haste doesn't only make waste, it fouls up cars.
Good luck.
Jim Hampton
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