Hello all,

I am in the planning process for a major upgrade to my ’86 245’s suspension and braking components. It currently handles “like poop,” shall we say, and with 275K, its time again for some new parts.

The problems are:
My P-brake doesn’t work properly at all (even though I have tightened the breath out of it, and the lever feels very firm, it won’t hold much at all), my shocks and struts are dead, my brakes work moderately well but whine when they are used and hot, and PA state inspection attempts from the local garages have told me I that need to replace my front brake hoses and my lower right ball joint is bad.

So my plan is to divide the work into front and rear axel groups:
Rear:
New brake hoses ($9/ea)
New rotors/drum (ATE or Zimmerman?)
New parking brake shoes and whatever other parts may be required
New brake pads (PBR or whatever)
New shocks (Boge Turbo Gas, already purchased)

Front:
New tie rod ends, both sides ($8/ea)
New ball joints, both sides ($15/ea, 1 already purchased)
New steering rack boots
New struts (again, Boge Turbo Gas, already purchased)
New vented rotors (ATE or Zimmerman or whatever)
New brake hoses (already purchased)
New brake pads (PBR)

So now the question is, does any of this make sense to you guys? I have done my best to read all that I can from previous posts, and shop around for the best prices and whatnot. What advice do you have for things like brands of rotors, other repairs I should do at the same time, etc.? Any more resources for how to actually do all of this (aside from the obvious: Bentlely, Haynes, old posts)? Thanks a ton…

-colbi

With that mileage, your suspension bushings are probably toast (unless they have been replaced). On my '86 245 with 200k, I replaced the rear trailing arm, and torque rod bushings in the rear along with new shocks. This made a huge improvement in the ride. With out the Volvo tool and a press, this is quite a hard job. Check the archives for advice. Your front bushings may also need replacement.

When I did my front ball joints, I bought the ball joint assembly which just bolts in, no separator needed.

You should check the upper strut mount bearings. If they are bad, you can replace them when you do the new strut inserts since you will have them off anyway. I did my struts and then later went back and did the upper mounts. This was twice the work!

Colbi, I live near Greensburg, Westmoreland county. Where are you getting such good prices??

I'm in Pittsburgh, and so are you, in a way. but that doesn't matter, i buy most of my parts online from http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm sometimes there are better prices to be found, but very rarely. in this area, UPS ground shipping usually takes about 3 days from Groton.

I've done some of this stuff:
Brake hoses; these can be awful to remove where they attch to the strut, be careful if you decide to use a torch , the line will explode if brake fluid is in it (just cut it, since you have new).
Ball joints (moaned on this board a week ago on this), get a good tool for this, but since you have to remove the strut any way should be easier........
DOT 4 fluid definately ( I think that's what Volvo calls for).
There is an inner tie rod end also (it's part of the tie rod so you have to buy the tie rod itself) check this (the tie rods are expensive).
When replacing the tie rod ends, count the turns as you remmove, put back the new the same number (this assumes you have the same brand that is on their now, different brands have different overall lengths, then the turn on trick will not work and you'll have to guess based onthe difference, probably should get an alignment to be sure.
Parking brake shoes last a long time, and are a pain to replace, shades of the days of workiog on drum brake shoes, very frustrating with all the springs and such. May want to check them first.
Probably better insurance to replace the cable..........
Sounds like you got some good prices..........
--
744-16v,745-16v,242Turbo.245DLT

What is considered a "good tool" to remove the ball joint? do i need to get a special tool? I read some stuff from the 700 series posts about a pickle fork- but i have to admit that i don't know what that is.

You don't say if you're doing it yourself or not. But unless otherwise well prepared for tools...

Lots of PB-Blaster (Penetrating oil) Start hitting those hose end fittings now!

A good set of tubing wrenches. These are box end wrenches with a slot cut in the box - they can go over tubing to get to the nut. Buy some quality.

Try very hard not to twist any brakeline. Replace if you do.

May as well go for some DOT4 Synthetic brake fluid - not terribly more expensive and purportedly better. You want to flush a least 3 pints through the system, two quarts wouldn't hurt.

Since you are that close, you may want to take off the brake calipers, inspect and clean them well, then drain & fill them while out - best with either the pressure bleeder or vacuum pump. Before you start, with the wheels off, you may want to make sure the caliper pistons are sliding freely. Squeeze the brake pads out, them have someone press the pedal. I've seen caliper pistons free with a good flush, but one can't count on it.

What else....

Take your time and do it methodically and carefully. Bad or failed brakes are no fun. Ask someone that's failed a single system (not dual triangular like the 200 series) car not once, but twice! Eg - Me!

does anyone know what size the fittings are for the brake hoses? i would like to know when i go to buy tools, otherwise i will end up buying 6 of them or something. thanks!

Colbi

probable reason bad parking brake = leaking rear axle seals.

You'll need seals (2 per side), bearings and retainer....

Oh yeah the rest of the shit proably died 100,000 miles ago...