I'm looking to build up a B230FT to make more power without relying on the turbo as much. I'm looking for around 200hp @ stock boost. In order to do this, I'm gonna need some pistons, rods, a new cam and other assorted bearings etc.

Anyone have any ideas who I should go to for conrods? Looking for stock length, but more robust construction. Maybe dished pistons? who knows. Any ideas on what I should do?

Thanks

Ryan

Ah yes, we know Ryan as Mr. Overboosted. He has good reason not to do that again, he he.

-Alex
p.s.(daah, it's a volvo...(inside joke guys))

ha ha ha

Whats up Alex.
FYI I've talked to a local salvage place (Alex, it's C-Salvage...) and they have the B230FT from the red 1991 turbo sitting out back with an M46 attached on the cheap. I talked to Carillo, it's $252 per rod, a set of pistons with rings is around $800, head work from Unitek is around $1700. Bearings and miscellaneous combined, I'm looking at spending approximately the GDP of Thailand to get this project started (i.e. more money than I have, or will ever have).

I'll keep you all posted

Ryan

PS. Alex, once AIM decides to start letting me back on, I'll talk to ya.

I don't understand why you wouldn't want to rely on your turbo for more power. My 88 performs great and its old with 270,000 k. I do plan to build an engine that will rev comfortably to 6000 but the turbo will be the main hp maker. I think 200hp is an easy goal with a new, stock engine and turbo refinements.
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88 765 w/2stage boost & G-valve @ 14 psi

Don't get me wrong, I love turbos. I'm just saying that I'd rather be more motor than turbo, with a motor that is tough enough to handle 14psi and make over 230hp at that pressure. So in order to make 230hp at 14 psi, I figure I need to make 200hp at 7.5psi. Plus I don't want to be going through turbos (especially of the mitsubishi variety) at an increased rate by blasting 15+ psi at a motor that's baseline 163hp. In short, I like the TD05 and I want to make 230hp with one on the car, without relying on it to perform above and beyond like my old one did, thus causing the blowout that lead to a big oily mess and really 4.5psi.

I guess I'm a traditional all motor guy with an affinity for forced induction...

Ryan

Okay I understand, we have similar goals. I've installed a solenoid valve that allows me to bypass my g-valve and run stock boost (to go easy on the engine) but when I hit the switch I run 14-15 psi for short bursts. I want an engine that doesn't make me cringe and hope it stays together.
Steve
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88 765 w/2stage boost & G-valve @ 14 psi

ROSS makes nice rods, try Corrillo too. For pistons look at JE, they will probably be your best bet. Also contact unitek about a head, that is where the power is.

I don't have the link handy, but it is on the turbobricks web site.

Jordan