The NAPA guys sold me this thick, black stuff in a tooth paste type-tube, and they say it is superior to the standard SilGlide grease I have used for brakes.

Any inferior experiences with Molybdenum DiSulfide base grease on high-temp areas like brakes?

Never heard of using MoS2 lube for brakes, doesn't make sense.

I use a 50/50 mix of Copaslip anti seize and Silglyde CAREFULLY on the back of the pads and on the pins. Too much is NOT better....

Don't even think about using Molybdenum based grease on the back sides of the pads. It is great grease for bearings, but you won't be able to keep it off of the pads and rotors if you use it as an anti squeal lube.

What part of your brakes do you contemplate using lube on?
by all means keep it away from pads and disks!! It creeps so
I would not even have it NEAR my brakes. Once you get it on
you are very hard put to get it back off.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

I was planning to use it on the caliper pin/slides. It's a CRC product. Had not thought of putting it on the backs of the pads, but with this knowledge I would never do it.

My brakes are quiet, and since I changed the bushings on the control arm, vibration free. Any opinions on the other CRC product? The red stuff called "brake quiet" or something along that line. You apply it to the backs of the pads and let it set-up. It proports to eliminate squeal. I was going to use it on the family Dodge Minivan next time I change the pads.

I have used a *very light* amount of sil glide on my caliper pins. Made a huge difference.
I have been using CRC Disc Brake Quiet for 25 years. I was one of the very few that never had squeeky 140 brakes (2 244s, 1 245). Other 140 owners actually gawked at me when we stopped side by side and we both knew who was squeeling. Good stuff but a little hard to work with. You spray a light coating (the stuff is blue) once or twice (I always let it dry? it never seems to totally dry) - best done on a warm day or in a warm garage. As I recall you can't be anywhere near an open flame.
The technique I developed was to put the pads on a clean ~12" long 2X4, *face down* - i.e. braking surface to the wood and then sprayed them. No worry about overspray getting on the brake surface, sticking to news papers etc. One could even drive some finish nails into the 2x4 to locate the pads and keep them from moving. Using this method allows you to take the spray can and pads out into open air to spray/dry (or at least just get sprayed and brought back into the shop. Now I like the teflon coated shims even better - so much easier than Disc Brake Quiet but I don't know if those teflon shims are available for all calipers.
Sorry for the long winded explanation but it may help somebody out there.

Don

97 965 98k Duchess, 87 745 gle ?93k, 82 244 googlek, 82 245 ?250k one owner Dowager Empress

Hello George:

Right now, I have Bendix L/R kits with bolts, sliders and boots to put on the front calipers on the 760T. Sure enough, each kit has a small tube of molybdenum grease, presumably for sliders and boots. What do you think I should use on sliders and inside of boots? Thank you for your help. Best regards.

Rafael