A lot of pressure is needed to actuate the clutch in my girfriends 242. The pedal was stiff and creaky. I replaced the clutch cable (really cheap from IPD) and adjusted it right. The pedal action was a little easier and smoother, but there was a creaking noise which seemed to be coming from inside the bellhousing/tranny assembly. That went away, but the clutch is still to stiff to be comfortable. Now it has been only a couple of weeks and the clutch is way out of adjustment, it must now be pressed very far towards the floor to get it into the gears.

The cable adjustment consists of white plastic threads/nut type. Could the adjustment have slipped, or cable stretched? Why would it be out of adjustment so quickly? I think that the high pressure required to actuate the clutch is hard on the cable assembly. The old pin that was attached to the pedal was very badly worn almost halfway through.

What could be causing the clutch to be so difficult to use? I find it also hard to actuate the hyrdaulic clutch in my 122, do volvos just have stiff clutch action?

Please help me out, my girlfriend gets sore driving her car around, and otherwise it is a really sweet ride.

Thanks,
mario.

Mario -- the following suggestion refers to a really rare occurance, but it happened to me and my symptoms are essentially what you describe.

Open the hood and check *very* carefully the black sheet metal 'triangle' on the firewall through which the clutch cable, steering shaft, etc., pass. Check around the clutch cable passthrough hole for cracks and splits in the sheet metal. On mine, the sheet metal tore, and no matter how often I'd adjust the cable, the sheet metal would just bend further. If this is your problem, get back to us and I can suggest a solution.

Another alternative -- I've heard of cracks forming in the clutch throwout bearing release arm -- that's the bar to which the other end of the cable attaches and it extends into the bellhousing. That's what I thought my problem was until I found the tears in the firewall. Let's hope this isn't your problem, because it requires dropping the trans (might as well put in a new clutch, rear seal, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, face the flywheel, and so forth if you're going to all that trouble).

Get back to us with what you find.

Rob Kuhlman

If the clutch engages CLOSE to the floor then it should be adjusted but you said
that you installed new one..Need a new clutch assembly.Install a rear main seal and be sure to get the flywheel surfaced.
--
john ..1985 245:GLTi..228k mi.. so. california

Driving UK spec volvo's my only eperience is with hydraulic clutches. There you need the changed the fuild every two years or so to ensure light pedal and proper adjustment action.

All I remember from the cable clutches is that there is a spring fitted between the arm and the tranny mounting. This would make the pedal action heavier though, but it does ensure proper disengagement.

Did you lub the clutch cable before you fitted it? If the cable is just heavy, you might wanna try and org Volvo part, they do tend to be of better make.

But in general the clutch is a bit heavy I guess.

Reg,

Jorn