Hi fellows!
Today I have a real problem.
The car was hesitating and cut out. After a few seconds it started again
I drove home. There in the driveway the same. Cutting out.
I read the FAQ and I had a fuel pump relay from the junkyard with
date 1997 stamped. So I put in that relay. Far left second from top.
It is the white one - Isn't it? In the FAQ they say it is green?
I feel the clicking when I turn on the ignition.
But now the car does not start, not with the old relay, not with the other.
The tank is half full. So if it is the prepump it would run.
My diagnosis is the main fuel pump.
Does it die so suddenly?
How much is a new mainpump?
Thanks
GN

My expierence with 240 pumps is they start to go then they are gone and that's it. I am new to the 740 series with a 740T Wgn.

I just recently went through this myself with my 85 740 Turbo. My main fuel pump was not getting any gas. To check this squirt a bit into the manifold, which one can on a turbo, and see if it will start. If it tries or does, you are not getting any fuel. Now just because you are not, does not mean it is the Fuel Pump. There are two things that I know of that control the fuel operation on and off the fuel pumps and one is the Fuel System Control Unit, located under the left hand bottom panel in the passenger compartment. Your fuel pumps should turn on when you switch on your ignition. You can stick a hose down the inlet hose filler pipe and you should hear the in-tank pump running. If not then it is either the fuel injector relay ( the other source for turning on your fuel pumps) or the Fuel System Control Unit. A defective in tank pump or main pump can cause the Fuel System Control Unit to go bad, which is not a good thing, because they are expensive. In my case, it was the Fuel System Control Unit. When I replace it, vola, my main pump started and I could start the car. However, I then had the systems you described. After much searching, I found it was the anti-knock sensor located underneath the manifold. The FAQ's describe the fuel pump and how to check for operation. But what I found out, is that one needs to also check the Fuel System Control Unit. To second another commentator I would not use the turbo pump as it is meant to pump a higher gas pressure. And I would not rely on your fuel pressure regulator and other aspects of your fuel injection system to compensate. I found out these cars are sensitive when it comes to fuel pressure. I have the other problem of a lot of 740s and not enough turbos in the recyling yards here in California. Maybe we could do some trading. Hope some of this was helpful.

Hi Burk!

Why do you find no turbos ?
I'm in Long Beach and here in this area are mostly turbos
and V6 on the yards.
email me at " volvoman66@hotmail.com "
Thanks

PS I'm still working on my car problem.

Thanks to all your suggestions!

1.) Sorry I forgot to specify my car:
1986 740 NonTurbo wagon with B230F engine

2.) The engine cranks over when I turn the key.
I did not yet check for spark.
The rotor and distributor and plugs are only 1 year old.

3.) The Volvo Quick reference parts catalog is not complete
It says starting 1983 until 1994 all engines except 760 have the
same Fuelpump relay # 3523608-2
And does not mention turbo models.
My both relais are white.

4.) I called around some shops
Autozone has one for 104 $ (brand: Master)
Kragen has one for 105 $ (brand: AC-Delco)

Question: What is a decent fuelpump to install?
Does it have to be Pierburg or Bosch ?
Do the other brands fail often or what?

At least these shops are in walking distance.

5.) When I open the fuel line, is the spilled fuel only
from the line or do I drain the tank dry?

6.) It is so stormy outside right now 23:20 pm
(you will see all the accidents tomorrow in the news)
that I will better do some research online than to play
in the darkness on the car.

Thanks again for all replies
I did not expect to receive so many mails
at this time of the day (Saturday evening/night)

As for the pumps... every "volvo-specific" site or parts listing I've seen lists Pierburg and Bosch, so I'm inclined to believe these are the "highly" recommended replacements. Of course, I'm sure you could use the one's from Autozone, I just don't know what the long-term performance might be, and I personally wouldn't want to risk a pump breakdown while on the road. You can survive and drive with a dead pre-pump, but a dead main pump will stop you cold.

The spilling fuel is only from the line, and will not drain the tank. If you want to avoid any spillage at all just pull the fuel pump relay while the car is running and it will vacate the lines... of course your car won't run so... ;)

BTW, if you plan on replacing the pump you might want to replace the filter while you are there... avoid the hastle down the road.

-Rick

Thanks
I was at Autozone and Kragen. Result:
The fuelpumps they have is brandname "master" for 105 $.
They "fit" hundreds of cars, but not really.
They are just 12 V and might have the right fitting.
But I don't know about diameter(fixture) , fuelpressure.
One is sure: The electric connectors are DIFFERENT I think
They come with mickymouse wires and you make your own connection.
It might work a while.
I am looking now for something more original, what really fits.
I could not see the ACdelco. None of the shops has it on stock.
The ACdelco is 150 $.
Thanks

What year is your car?
Fuel pump relay in my NA 88 740 is white. Your diagnosis is incomplete until you verify that pump is bad by applying power as suggested or jumpering across relay contacts. There are 2 relays in the white package, system relay and fuel pump relay. System relay clicks when key is turned on, fuel relay clicks only when engine cranks and spark is detected.
From what you have said there are other possibilities and it is not necessarily a fuel problem. Do you have spark? Does the tach nudge up slightly while you crank?

You can do a bypass on the relay sockets (using a piece of wire) to activate the pumps driectly and see if they are running. The instructions are in the FAQ. The car should be at least turning over even if the pumps have quit... is it? If it isn't even turning over I would look at something else as the problem... like a straight electrical failure, maybe a blown fuse, dirty or loose battery leads, etc.

As for buying a pump, never buy a standard part from IPD... they are totally overpriced. IPD is only good for specific things other folks don't have... volvo specific aftermarket gear, headliner backing, etc.

For pricing a pump go to one of the following (they have different prices on different things, so price compare):

http://www.importeccatalog.com
http://www.thepartsbin.com
http://www.alloemvolvoparts.com

As a point of reference, importeccatalog.com has a pierburg brand pump for $145.

As for the relay coloring... the turbo relay is white, the gle or n/a relay is green. If you are using the white one on an n/a (non-aspirated) volvo you are using the wrong relay.

good luck,
rick

Are there 12 volts to the pump? Does the main pump run? You can determine if the pump is running by feeling it vibrate in your hand while you have someone crank the engine over. Be careful while lying under the wheels and trying to start the car! You could always run a hot wire from the pump to the battery to insure that the pump is operative. If the pump is grounded properly and a 12 volt direct feed won't make it run you can figure it is dead.

Randy

Thanks Randy!

I will try it.
A new mainpump is around 200 $ in IPD. I was thinking to get one from the junkyard. Now there are much more turbos and V6 on the junkyard
than regular 230F (I have 230F), but the partnumbers are different.
Volvo numbers for fuelmainpumps are:
B230F # 9142044-8
B230FT # 9142045-5
B28F # 1336677-8
Question: Can I use a pump from a turbo B230FT in my B230?
I think it would work. Is there a problem or is it dangerous?
Does it mechanically fit ?
Thanks

PS: I checked the fuses #1 and #11 - they are ok.

The pumps do supply different pressures, with the b230ft pump putting out higher psi than the n/a pump. The fuelpressure regulator on the fuel rail will probably compensate for the pressure difference, but I wouldn't recommend using anything other than the right pump for your vehicle. Fuel delivery isn't one of those items you want to mess around with.

-rt

I'm sorry I don't know about interchange possibilities on fuel pumps. They are the same size and fit as far as I know but different pumps will more than likely supply different pressures. There is a good chance that the fuel system sensors and regulators will be able to compensate but I'm just not familiar with their ability to do that.

Randy