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Rod bearings... 700 1989

posted by  Ryan M on  Sun Feb 17 04:19 CST 2002
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last visit: Tue Oct 9 03:36 CST 2001
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Hi Guys

I'm wondering if it's as hard as the Haynes manual says it is to remove the oil pan? I was under there looking and it didn't seem all that evil. Of couse I don't have X-Ray vision so I don't know what I have to clear with the lip of the pan...

I'm going to do this (eventually) because according to my senses (and ipd's) I've got a conrod bearing problem. Here's the scenario...

Start the car and it knocks like someone's takind a wooden faced mallet to a solid piece of metal. It also idles really rough, but doesn't miss. Let the oil circulate and the motor get warmer and the knocking gets quieter and the idle smoothes out, but at idle and in neutral the knocking is still really noticible. So, the guy on the phone with me when I was talkin' to ipd, said, "when it gets warm and the idle smoothes out, sit in the car while it's running and have a buddy pull the plug wires one by one, and see when the knocking goes away." So we did it, pulled #1, idled really rough but still heard knocking. Puled #2, same thing. Pulled #3 and the knocking stopped. Did the same with 4, but knocking started back up. Also, as per ipd instruction, used a broom as sort of a "stethoscope." Touched one end to the block, the other to my ear, and as I got closer to #3, the knocking got louder.

This car only has 140k miles on it, and at least since 100k, the oil has been changed religiously. The knocking has been around since then and hasn't gotten worse. Do you think it might be something else?

Thanks

Ryan








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    Rod bearings... 700 1989

    posted by  chris herbst on  Sun Feb 17 04:40 CST 2002
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    last visit: Mon Oct 20 20:32 CST 2014
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    Piston slap, perhaps. Usually that's in the #1 cylinder, but that's only a typical scenario, not a rule. Piston slap sounds like a bad connecting rod, but is really pretty much harmless. It's much worse in colder weather, and sometimes in the warm months it disappears altogether.

    If you have a #3 connecting rod problem, I'd be surprised. Usually #s 1 and 4 are the ones that get it first, in that order. You would also be seeing significant bronze or copper-looking stuff in the oil. Change it out into a clean pan and see what you get. Keep in mind that you'll always see a little bit of visible metallic particles, but they should be very neutral in color, whereas a bad rod bearing will show up as a goldish hue, sometimes with big chunks of silver or copper material in the oil.

    The big question mark for me is that it goes away when the engine warms up. Usually a rod knock is quiet when you first start the car, but gets noisier as you get the engine up to temp.
    --
    chris herbst, five volvos.








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      Rod bearings... 700 1989

      posted by  Ryan M on  Sun Feb 17 04:59 CST 2002
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      last visit: Tue Oct 9 03:36 CST 2001
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      Ya know, it's funny you should mention #1 conrod. I was always under the impression they were the 1st to go too. I don't know why #3 would go... although I wasn't exactly present in the engine compartment when my buddy was pulling plug wires, maybe that was just the 3rd one he pulled? I suppose I could do this myself!

      You can hear the knocking from outside the car when the car is cold, but when the car is warm, the only place you can hear the knocking is inside... that was why I thought it was a rod or somethin...

      Also, any ideas on why it'd be idling really rough when cold? Like I said, it's not missing, just idling rough. I've also got gawd-awful low end power. The car is deathly slow off the line. I floor it and it just kinda sits there, not stuttering, just taking a REAL long time to do it's thing. The boost kicks in at around 2300 rpm, so it seems, and from there until 4000 rpm the power is like it should be. But once the engine hits 4300 rpm the power just sinks. I've been in a few 740's with a B230FT (1988-1991), and it doesn't sound anything like mine, and it's a whole lot more snappy off the line, one totally stock lights up the right rear tire off the line!! Mine doesn't light up the hides until 3000 rpm in 1st... and by then I'm already moving...

      Thanks again!

      Ryan







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