1975 164 I have water coming in somewhere on the drivers side front, I had a leak around the windshield but R&Red the rope seal so fixed that leak, this car has a sunroof so I wonder about the sunroof drains and how they work, any ideas where this model may be prone to leaking? Thanks

I had seams leaking on a '71 (driver and passanger side). I used seam sealer inside and out and the leaks stopped. The seam sealer is available from parts stores. Some of the firewall grommets/pass throughs without gromets were leaking too. I was lucky in that I could see where the water was leaking (there was a trail). I siliconed like crazy and the leaks finally stopped. You might want to take the opportunity to pull the carpet and padding out for a thorough dry. This also give a chance to inspect the floor, treat any rust and remove any buildup that may trap future water and rust the floor.

Thanks,
Since I posted this I got out with the hose and found the leak, for future reference, my leak was where the hood opening cabel comes through the firewall, I now have a use for the left over ribbon seal for the windshield, Thanks for your help. Byron

I'm curious--is the rope seal you describe made of butyl? And did you use any other kind of adhesive of sealant? I ask because I'm just about to reset my windshield and the volvo green book talks about putting adhesive around the windshield lip, then apply the butyl, then put adhesive on the windshield itself and then installing and applying pressure to seat it all around. Takes a couple of days to cure. Does this sound about right?

I worry that the butyl ends up being the only thing that really holds the windshield to the car, with the adhesive holding the butyl to the car and glass.
--regards

I don't know what the material is made of but it is manufactured by 3-M I used the 3/8" type, most any auto supply store should have it. I set it in the channel and cleaned the window with laquer thinner. Have the window where you want it because when you set it it WILL NOT move, A friend of mine and I sat on the hood and leaned back on the windshield for about 30 minutes to set it. Worked great! No leaks at all, and I don't think you need to worry about it falling out.

I've had leaks in the driver's side of my 142 that came through the body seam where the floor meets the firewall panel. Water that gets into the air intake grille just below the windshield flows through chambers, to each side of the car, and out through weep holes in the panels. These seams can be resealed, but it is not easy to do. Even if you can seal them, it is very hard to prevent them from rusting open again. I had to open them up from the inside, clean out rust and old seam sealer and then reseal them with new seam sealer. I wish there were some way to apply rustproofing on the outer surfaces, but short of cutting the car apart, I can't imagine how to do it. Anyway, it has been about five years, and the leak hasn't reappeared. Just remove the plastic trim, pull back the carpet and pad and get under there with a flashlight when it is raining hard or while someone runs a hose on different parts of your car's front end (and on the roof if you still suspect the sunroof). Work your way up from the lowest point to the roof to try and isolate the leak. Sometimes if no leaks appear, you have to park on a hill to do the full test.

The car's design, especially the grille area that can't be cleaned of leaves and debris, seems like it could be much better to me. Every time I have to replace a heater fan motor (another bad design), I find a ton of old leaves and interesting junk that dropped through the grille and got stuck in there.

I have also had leaks that came from the windshield wiper assembly (but only when the wipers were operating!).