Recently, AC compressor died on 760. From a most helpful post from Steve Ringlee, I learned that compressor died the "black death" and how to prevent the premature or even immediate same death of the new compressor. Although information in the links Steve provided has convinced me of the low cost of a complete or at least a "firewall forward" overhaul of an AC when the compressor has died the "black death", price is steep. I have spent over $1,000 on genuine Volvo parts, even at a discount. After I took AC apart, I thought a periodic evacuation, flushing and putting in new oil and gas could prevent or at least delay the "black death" of the compressor and AC overhaul. I asked Steve about this idea and he suggested a new receiver would be needed. Posting a reply to an offer to help from Warren Bain, I thought a new orifice or VOV should be put in too, probably together with an Airsept screen to be replaced with a new one upon each periodic maintenance. I estimate each DIY maintenance should cost around $100: $20 for professional evacuation, $20 for flushing solvent ($40 for tool and solvent), $35-45 for a new receiver and orifice valve or VOV, $5 for an Airsept screen ($86 for the complete kit with a dozen screens), $20 for R134 and oil. Please, tell me what you AC gurus, techs and DIY think. Thank you and best regards.

I'm not a tech, but I've done alot of research on AC systems and have repaired quite a few. Here's my advice. Replace the compressor, disconnect all lines (but don't remove them from the car, unless very easy) and flush each one individually. The flush I use is a terpene based (like terpentine) product made by Johnson. I do not use a flush gun, and instead, use a small funnel to fill each line, let the flush sit a while, and then blow it out with a compressor. Then repeat this until it comes out clean. Any suspicious hose/line should be replaced. Do not flush the receiver (replace it). Do flush the evaporator and the condensor. Replace all the seals. I have retrofitted systems to R134a and recommend it. You can use the appropriate parts from a 93 240, as it was an R134a system. I'm not sure, but I believe that year model used a more efficient condensor and evaporator to make up for the less efficient cooling capacity of the refridgerant. The R134a system on my 93 245 works great and is very cold here in Dallas. Whatever you do, don't open the receiver until you're ready to install it (last item in the system), put in the correct type and amount of oil into the receiver, and then immediately evacuate the system to a deep vacuum. Rent a vacuum pump that can get you down to at least 30 inches and keep it pumping for an hour. Then let the system sit for an hour and see if you have any leaks. When you recharge it, go by weight and not pressure. If you switch over to R134a, only use 85 to 90% of the weight of R12.

If you stick with R12 and the freon isn't leaking, replacing a bad compressor in itself is no big deal depending on why it died in the first place. As long as there's no metal particles in the AC lines, no common either BTW, there's simply no reason why you can just replace the compressor only.
Not only do I repair Volvos daily for a living, I also own an older 745 and a few years ago I replaced my original AC compressor because its seals were leaking freon. I installed a used compressor and it's been fine ever since.
I don't ever advise converting an R12 system to 134a unless you're usually leaking freon and a DIY who can just add his own 134a whenever needed (legal in some states). Sure, R12 costs more per lb but the stuff's still very available and if it's not leaking, is cheaper to use than converting in most cases.

Thank you for your reply. A couple of months ago, I had a leaking evaporator replaced with a new one by my regular independent Volvo mechanic. He put in a Nartron variable orifice valve, two receivers (he tells me he contaminated the first one) and R12 (several times), as he struggled with AC which would not cool the car much. He gave up and gave me the car back. A few days later the compressor seized and I found black oil oozing out of the receiver. I posted about this, and I was told about compressor "black death" and read about it at www.ackits.com and www.aircondition.com At both websites, prescribed repair consists of replacing every AC component outside the passenger compartment to get rid of metal particles and contaminants that would ruin the new compressor in a short time. Taking apart the AC and flushing each component individually was offered as a least desirable alternative. Since I have no access to an air compressor, flushing tools or the like, I thought I would put in new parts. Old parts are really fouled with black dirt and there are metal particles in the system. I thought about taking the condenser and aluminum lines to be flushed at a local shop, but they turned out to be less than reliable after I took the car there to have R12 taken out. The long aluminum line between the condenser and evaporator turned out to be damaged, whether from rubbing in the car or less than careful removal by me. Since I have to change everything but the new evaporator which I will flush as best I can, I will convert to R134 which I can more easily service myself. I had AC on the 960 serviced at the local PEP Boys and that turned into a nightmare when they nearly blew the passenger airbag and set off the SRS red light on the dasboard, and broke a few things along the way. I had to subscribe to ALLDATA and learn about airbag service, buy equipment from Fluke and special tools from Volvo to set that disaster right. To avoid that sort of thing, I will try to service the Volvos myself until I return stateside. That is why I asked about the possibility of periodically flushing AC and even parts like the condenser, and changing oil and gas, maybe the receiver, orifice valve and even an Airsept screen, to avoid or at least delay compressor failure and the resulting trouble and expense. Best regards.

I think that you are a little on the low side: the receiver-dryer and VOV would be around $100 (the VOV alone is $25). Note as well that the new synthetic oils for use with R134 are actually pretty good and should make compressors last longer. Nonetheless, PM on an a/c system is a good idea. Let us know how you make out.

Swedish Engineering has the receiver for $30. AAPAK has the VOV for $17, but locally I found it for $12. I can buy the stock orifice valve locally for $3. Old parts are off the car. New compressor is already on the car. So far so good, but some parts have not arrived yet. Best regards.