Hello Folks,


I have starting problem in the morning or after car been sitting for some period of time (4,5 hours). It needs 3,4 turning cycles before it starts and then it stalls, rev goes up and down ( so I need to press accelerator to keep it live ) but soon as it starts driving, rev become even. When motor is warm or after short sitting period it starts straight away. I have cleaned trottle body, changed rotor, spark plugs, tuned up, but to get right rev 800 I needed to unscrew idle adjuster to much (my feeling). All vacuum lines appear to be ok. Since I bough this car (my second Volvo) 6 months ago there is some creaking sound from fuel pump. I was told by previous owner pump was changed and He thought that fuel accumulator produces that sound. Except that sound ( which become louder as tank empties ) there is no problem during driving. Any idea is welcome.

Cheers
Goran

Hello Folks,

Thank you very much to all of you. Most if no all of you confirmed my suspisions.Now I am going to do some practical work.

Cheers
Goran

I'm having the same problem. Checked and did all you did. I finally brought it to the mechanic and he told me that my Idle Control Valve was shot. I'm going to replace it with one from the boneyard tomorrow. I hope it will solve the problem.
--
'86 245 DL Volvo Blue/ Blue Vinyl M46

I'd first pull out the cold start injector to see if it's spraying when you turn the engine over.If it does'nt spray for approx. 10 sec. check to see that it's getting 12 volts at the connector going to it. If it doesnt spray and has 12volts then you've found the problem, replace the injector.If it's not getting power check the ground for cleanliness and also the wires themselves for a short. If all is good there, move on to the thermal time switch (which powers the injector)check it's connector,if it's clean the switch is most likely bad .if all above is in working order the culprit could be the aux. air valve (which provides extra air to mix with the fuel recieved during a cold start)it's the little peice mounted on the head with hoses leading to and from the thottle body. Take the top hose off and look down in the valve with a flashlight.When the engine is cold the valve should have sort of a cresent-shaped opening to allow air to pass.If not open when cold, it could be gummed up spray a bit of pb blaster in it and tap lightly with a small hammer or the handle of a screwdriver.If it pops open after doing this take it off and soak it over night in some solvent and it should work fine.There's also the Control Pressure Regulator that provides the extra fuel to mix with the air from the aux. air valve.Check the arcives for info. on cleaning this unit.Also it sounds like your in tank pump may be inoperative, check it as well . Good luck troubleshooting and write back if you have any quesions. B.G.

Hi,
I get on this list every now and then and make the same post.
If you are having intermitent type starting or running issues and have tried all else
*****Check the engine speed sensor.*******
These things go after a while. I battled this over two years, and finaly took it in to a dealer.

Explain to me exactly where the speen sensor is located on a 79 240.

Was the in-tank pump replaced, too? The sound growing louder as the tank empties points to a failing in-tank pump since the main pump must work harder and harder. You may have a weak fuel check valve (won't hold pressure so you have to crank more to build it back up), and a gummed up Idle Air Valve, (causing variability in idle speed) too.

Good Luck,

Bob, computer urug.

:>)