What started out to be a simple brake pad replacement has turned into a major brake project that I hadn't planned on getting into. I finally got the rear brakes done after wrestling with those pesky rear brake caliper pistons.

I thought the front pads would be a breeze after that... Wrong!
Onece I got into the front brakes, the caliper dust boots and the rotors were shot and in need of replacement. I have finally assembled all the new parts to put everything back together, but I have a question regarding the front wheel bearings. I know many of you favor repacking the wheel bearings, but the local Volvo specialist (not a dealer) that I've been buying my parts from advised me to leave the front bearings alone unless they are making noise.
The car is an '85 240 with 101k on the clock. He said the bearings should be fine at that mileage. He also said if the bearings are not cleaned and repacked properly that it can cause problems that I might not have otherwise.

I have everything stripped down to the hubs so I need to make a decision whether or not to repack the wheel bearings while I'm in there, but I don't want to do it if it's not really needed. I've never repacked wheel bearings before even though the procedure in the Bently manual seems fairly simple unless I have to pull the races off the spindle, which means I would need a puller tool.

I've been working on this job for a week chasing parts and such and I really need to get this car back on the road ASAP. So I'm asking for your opinion on the front wheel bearings. Repack or leave'em alone?

BTW, I got new Volvo rotors, reman calipers, PBR pads and new hardware kits
for the front. The brakes should feel real good after I'm done.

Thanks in advance!

DeWayne

I had read about repacking bearings and probably was shown how to in a high school shop class, but when I attempted this job under the tutelage of someone who does this for a living I was surprised how many mistakes I was making - there is a real technique for this and the guy who was helping me was extremely diligent in ensuring NO contamination got into the bearings - I felt like I was in surgery. Packing is the right term to use too as the grease must be very well packed in with no air spaces. The novice tends to use lots of grease and makes a big mess.

I called the local Volvo dealer to find out what the Volvo recommended service interval is on repacking the wheel bearings. They said that Volvo doesn't have one for the wheel bearings but they have seen 240's go 150-200K before needing anything done to the wheel bearings. They recommended that I leave them alone unless there is a problem. Based on reinspection of the hubs and all the feedback I have recieved, I have decided to leave them alone until at least the next time I have to replace the pads again. By them I will have a cone injector for my grease gun and I will assemble all the needed parts and grease before I start the job. I was caught off guard doing this brake job and have wasted a lot of time looking all over town for new parts. The wife needs the car back so I didn't have time to mail order the parts that were needed. I have learned from this experience and will do better planning next time around.

Thanks again for all the advice.

DeWayne

Personally, I'd repack them. They are off already.
When my Volvo turned 100K I replaced the fluids in the Trani (manual) rear axle and repacked the front wheel bearings. These are things that can probably go forever but I figured with all my cars, if they break 100K I owe them.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

Having just done this myself, I say 1. New bearing seals, 2. If the grease is plentiful and doesn't seem Dirty, Burned, and the RACES are not worn, you can leave them alone. (I would repack them) I myself would not remove the RACES unless I could "Press" them in under High Pressure. Hope this helps..
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john ..1985 245:GLTi..228k mi.. so. california

Leave'em alone. Worry about it 50,000 miles from now.

35 year Volvo driver/mechanic

read the reply to paul s. i responded to him by accident.

bubba
--
just call me Bubba

The real question is: What does the current grease look like and is there any scoring to the races?

I say solvent clean the heck out of everything, get a grease injector cone and pack them with Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease. Pretty hard to screw up and that grease is amazing!

One warning, NEVER spin a dry wheel bearing, especially with an air gun! You can toast them faster than you can say "TOAST!"
--
www.fidalgo.net/~brook4

Would I have to do that to repack the bearings? ..or just pull the hub off and follow the procedure in the Bently manual. I really can't afford to screw up the bearings after the money I just dropped on new calipers, rotors & pads.


These grease gun injector cones, do they work well? What other grease is good besides Amsoil that can be purchased locally? I don't have time to order and wait for the Amsoil to arrive. The car has to be on the road again by Friday.

Thanks for the reply..!


DeWayne

Not necessary to remove unless it is shot or the grease seal is gone.

Also never MIX greases (ok with most motor oils, but grease mixing is a BIG NO-NO) And make sure everything is cleaner than your first girlfriend.

I like the gun and cone (clean up is nasty), but I have used the baggy method as well as the latex glove method....whatever feels good to get as much grease in as you can)

Order the Amsoil today and it'll be there Wed or Thursday, but I can only say shop and find a good hi-temp front disk brake compatible grease.
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www.fidalgo.net/~brook4

repack them. you're already there and the cost is minimal. get yourself a big flathead screwdriver and good size hammer to know out the bearing hubs (it'll take some pretty good bangs to get it out) and use a large diameter socket to punch it back in (good, quality tools help this.) get your bearings, bearing grease and sandwich baggies. put one bearing in a baggie of its own and glob of grease. work the grease into the bearings as much as you possibly can (i've done this and it is DEFENITELY much cleaner), pack the bearings into the rotors, pack as much grease inot and around the bearings in the rotors and reinstall. run the lock nut down pretty snug and remove it by 1/4 turn. you're done.

Bubba
--
just call me Bubba