I am tearing my hair out with this problem and would like some assistance. My 1986 244DL cranks, fires then immediately dies (does not catch), then if you try to crank it over again it will not fire for several hours.

I cannot hear any pre-pump noise when I turn the key, and there is no electricity running through the fuse panel. It is cold on both sides (no electricity to my meter), yet all of the lights on the dash work. There is a silver 4 prong transformer(?) that says Sylvania TR2029 12 volts that is sitting next to the fuses under the dash that is warm to the touch.

Haynes says that there is an "in-line" fuse (as opposed to the fuses in the panel) for the fuel system. Where is it and is it possible that this is the problem? The fuel pump relay tests out OK, but when I probe the circuit while turning the key there is no voltage.

Also what is a "buzzer relay"?

I have tested the individual fuses for both fuel pumps and both work. Also both pumps were replaced last summer (and presumably are still working).

Any help would be much appreciated.

There's a 25 amp blade-type fuse clipped on a bracket behind the battery with 2 fat red wires going to it. These commonly corrode/overheat/flake out. You can try reseating the fuse; when I tried it on my '85, the holder disintegrated. Fortunately there are several very nice weatherproof fuseholders in each Chevy Citation at the pick-n-pull; ipd also sells them. Just cut out the old one and splice the new one in.
A "buzzer relay" is the thing that makes the rude noise when the key's in the ignition and the door's open, etc., etc.

Thanks everyone for your great advise.

Janet

The identical 25 amp fuse holder that IPD sells for $16 is available at your local NAPA dealer for $2 and change.
RP
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RP '87 245 266,000 mi

Sounds like a better deal than my Radio Shack deal. The RS unit has no tabs for mounting. Last time I had a 25-amp fuse holder disintegrate, I was umpteen miles from nowhere.

Well, the fat red wires terminate in female clips that, inside the Volvo fuse holder, clip onto the fittings that hold the fuse. AND, the wire terminals themselves will hold the fuse. Weave the fat red wires through the p/s lines, or the battery cables, in such a way that the ends won't contact anything. Put in the fuse, and drive away. Works fer me. 4 months! Just remember that the fuse is hot all the time, it's not ignition-switch controlled.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)