I'm thinking about putting a clutch in my '85 245. Any hints or words of wisdom? Any good sources of info., manuals, instructions, etc? How big of a pain is this? What should I replace whilst I'm down there? What has anyone paid to get this done? timeframe for a fairly "mecanical" dude?

Thanks so much
Rich

Rich,

There is a trick to removing the pilot bearing. The books show using a slide hammer, but if you want to remove it with little effort and no special tools follow these steps.
(Assuming clutch has been removed and you can see the pilot bearing.)

1. Remove the retainer as shown in the books.
2. Find a solid piece of material that will just fit through the Inner Diameter of the bearing. A wooden dowel rod is my choice because it will not damage the crank shaft.
3. Begin packing axle grease through the inner diameter of the bearing until the void inside the crank shaft is filled. Use the dowel to finsh packing the grease.
4. If using a dowel cut to appox. 8" long, push it through the ID of the bearing. Since the grease is not compressable it will in turn push the bearing out from the inside. Carefully so as not to damage the crank shaft, a tap with a hammer may be needed to get it started moving.
5. As the bearing moves out continue packing more grease into the void left by the moving bearing.
6. After removing the bearing wipe away all grease and clean area with brake cleaner. (Something that does not leave a residue).

I have used this method without ever having any problems. Without even damaging the pilot bearing or any of the other parts.

I replaced my clutch on my 86 240 last Sept. I got a complete kit that came with a new clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and an alignment tool. I have had good luck with this replacement. Like the other quys have said replace the pilot bearing (spend the extra money for a name brand). If a pilot bearing goes it will eat up the input shaft on your tranny. Also watch out for the back of the engine head if it bangs into the firewall you can dislodge the large plug that covers the back of the cam. The top two bolt were the only PITA for me.

Brian
86 240GL

Rich:

To Terry's excellent advice, I'd add the following minor points:

The rear main seal sits in its own little "housing" at the rear of the engine. The easiest way to get the old rear main seal out and the new one in is to remove this housing (two of the bolts come up from the oil pan) and do it at the workbench. This housing has its own gasket, and I guarantee you won't get the old one off in one piece, so best to have a new one on hand (just a few bucks from the dealer; less if you order from one of the online parts suppliers along with the other stuff you'll need).

The engine will droop to the rear and put a lot of strain on the motor mounts while the tranny is out of the car. If you have a set of the strut tower to firewall braces installed on the car, you can use a 2X4 laying across these braces with a hole drilled through the middle, an eye bolt and an "S" hook to grab hold of the lifting ring at the rear of the engine. This will take the strain off of the motor mounts and allow you (with the nut on the end of the eye bolt) to raise and lower the rear of the engine to facilitate re-installation of the tranny.

If the "fourth gear switch" on the transmission is original, consider replacing it while the tranny is out of the car. It's possible to do it with the tranny installed, but much, much easier while it's out. They're only about $21 from IPD and they DO tend to fail after 175-200K or so.

The top two bellhousing to engine bolts are tough to get at, and will require (seriously) about four feet of extensions and a universal on the socket. Your ratchet will be back near the shifter as you remove and reinstall these bolts.

Good luck with it. Harbor Freight used to sell a transmission jack for $59 or so; I wouldn't attempt the job without one.
--
Mike W., four 240s, a 740T and a 940T, Largo, FL

I did this on my '87 last December. I had never done anything like it before, sounds like you haven't either. I gathered a lot of opinions from this board before I started, it was about an even split between people who thought the job was ok and those who would just as soon have paid to have it done. I thought it was a lot of work but I enjoyed doing it.

I'd set aside a weekend for the job. It would be nice if you didn't have to have the car on Monday, just in case. You don't want to get in a hurry. I've seen estimates of 1/2 a day or a day, I can say I was no where near done in 1/2 a day.

I wouldn't want to do it without a garage.

Replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, transmission mount, and rear main seal while you're in there. Consider replacing the drive shaft support mount and bearing if it's never been done.

Things you need: good sockets, long socket extensions, socket u-joints, a jack to lift the transmission. If somebody helps or you are strong/lucky you might be able to lift the tranny back in place - I couldn't do it. Jack stands obviously. The higher you can get the car off the ground (safely) the easier it will be - you're going to spend a lot of time under there.

Make sure your motor mounts are in good shape before you start. I didn't, and it made getting the tranny and transmission crossmember back in place a pain.

Get a Bentley manual for sure, also the Haynes is not as good but it does explain a couple things better than the Bentley. I read old war stories in the archives, they help get a feel for what you are about to get into.

Bottom line: is a PITA? Yes. But it's do-able by a not-very-experienced diy'er if you are careful and take your time.

Good luck!

Terry