Hi everyone,
I have a 92' 940 Turbo with just a little over 100K on it. I had the Turbo replaced June of 2001. The car has been burning/losing too much oil lately. It blows some smoke sometimes when I get on the turbo hard.
**I know that a Turbo is going to burn a little more oil than a N/T.
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you can provide.
Thanks,

Joshua

When you replaced the turbo, did you also replace the oil return line? This can coke up and prevent oil from moving freely from the turbo unit. Most rebuilders insist on a new line in order to maintain the warranty.

Cleaning or (better) replacing the oil trap. Clean the rest of the breather system. If you have leaks, the oil cooler adapter (used only on turbos) often leaks at the block. How are the front crank, counter shaft, and cam seals?

Sorry to intervene in the middle of this thread.
I also have oil leaks. I recently bougth my 940 se turbo 1991 200K miles. It developed oil leaks. My mech. changed time belt and seals in the front of engine some clamps in the fromt hoses and the distributor. Leaks continued. He said it could be the main rear seal. I could be, but he did not say anything about the flame trap. I have read the 700/900 FAQ and it mentions it as well as other web sites, but the only goo picture of a B230FT engine's Oil Flame trap is in http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/oiltrap.htm, however when I look in my car, it doesn not seem like it.
1. Does the 940 SE turbo 1991 have the flame trap?
2. If yes, can it be maintained? Does any one have a picture of it or a procedure to take it out and re install it or the replacement parts.
3. Do I have to take the Intake manifold out to be able to handle the flame trap.
4. Is there a flame trap kit to relocate this piece to a more convenient location?

Thanks very much for your feedback

1. Turbos do not have a flame trap. They have an equivalent Y fitting.
2. This Y fitting does to be cleaned, or replaced. Sometimes the small nipple of the Y breaks off from old age when you try to clean it.
3. No, the intake manifold does not need to be pulled to clean the Y fitting. You may want to pull the intake manifold to remove the Oil Trap if your car is a 1988 or later model year. The improved Oil Trap is taller and difficult for some of us Shade Tree Mechanics to remove with the intake manifold in place. I do mine without pulling the intake manifold, but some have posted that it was impossible for them to do the job without removing the intake manifold.

If the oil leak is from the right side of the engine, it is the Oil Coller Adapter leaking. They all leak with that kind of miles and time.

Before you have the rear main seal replaced. make sure the distributor is not leaking. The shaft seal also leaks with that kind of miles and time. See the 700/900 FAQ for how to replace this and my information on seal part numbers. The distributor shaft seal is not available from Volvo. If the rear main seal needs to be replaced, I would figure four hours of shop time.