87 740 ... 225,000...time for timing belt...besides the belt, what else should I change while I am in there? I guess I need a puller for the crank pulley, huhh?

Just did this job this past weekend for the first time. The way that I got my crank bolt off was to jam a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth as outlined in the FAQ. Very simple. Also, I was jumping up and down on my ratchet and the thing still would not come off so what I did was to lay down with my foot on the ratchet handle and push. I had to brace myself with my arms over my head against the wall of my carport. It was very easy this way. I was able to apply quite a bit more force this way than my own weight (Think about how strong your legs are!). Might want to think about where you position your car before you get things torn apart in case you have to do something like this.
Don Tibbetts
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92 745T 91K mi

Maybe I've just had bad luck, but I've gone through two harmonic balancers on our 87 760T....240K miles.

I'd replace the timing belt tensioner, certainly at 225K if it's not been replaced. General rule of thumb is to replace the tensioner every second belt change...they're cheap. Try FCPGROTON.com for mail order.

Consider or just do it...replace all three seals, cam, intermediate(oilpump) shaft seal, and crankshaft main seal. You can easily fabricate seal installers from PCV pipe/fittings with a little filing or handy with a sanding disk (outer/ID to fit the block casting/seal OD). I use a little loctite to install/hold the seals in. Use a hook/seal remover (I got mine from Home Depot for about a buck) to yank the old ones out.

Replace the v-belts...cheap insurance and it's schweet how quiet new ones run. Amazing how noisy even two year old belts are....guess it's the weather/ozone/pollution or whatever.

Fix or replace the belly pan....if it's missing, get a new one.

Buy the harmonic balancer holder...relatively cheap special tool and it avoids a lot of problems....check your local volvo club and you may be able to borrow one and/or from someone with one in your area.

"...guess I need a puller for the crank pulley, huhh?"

It's best to use the pulley tool to lock up the crank for loosening and retorquing the center bolt. But you can do fine with the "rope trick," which is well described in the archives. Resist the urge to grab the pulley with a strap wrench -- you might damage the rubber vibration damper in the pulley. If you do, you'll be buying a new one.

"...what else should I change while I am in there?"

Timing belt, tensioner, three front engine seals (plus seal housing gasket), and the water pump.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)