hi all
i have an 84 240 gl, and lately she's been leakin more than usual. i noticed one stream of oil coming from the oil filler on the valve cover. could the cap be bad? (before u scream flame trap, i had that done about 6 mos ago.)

also, i know i have a lead in the rear pan/main seal area. is it something i can realistically do myself? it doesnt seem too hard. i have a full complement of hand and air tools and a jack and stands. any feedback appreciated. thanks

while you're checking the flame trap, if you have the older style holder (smaller) you can swap in a newer style (larger) & a plastic flame trap. i picked up mine from a wreckers for $2, can't see it fouling up anytime soon =)
there's another post on the 200 board right now that covers all the tips for replacing the rear main seal.
best of luck
--
-- '82 245GL, B23E, K-cam, under restoration, 350k km --

Had a similar problem last year. It WAS the oil filler cap, it has a washer that slips right in. It costs a couple of bucks, I got mine at fcpgroton.com.
Chris

rear main leaking.easy job,be sure to replace the cover gasket also.if you dont you may have to do a lot of backtracking. oil around oil fill,crankcase ventilation or blowby, does she smoke ? when you had the flame trap done 6 mnths ago did they check to make sure all the hoses blew through o.k.? did they cleen out the nipple on the intake? /

R&R Rear main seal = "easy job"? Doesnt the motor have to be lifted off the mounts so the oil pan will clear? Guess it is straight forward after one rigs up a lifting device for the engine block?

Reason I am asking is because daughter's 88 245 needs a new rear main seal... trying to determine if within the realm of my DIY wherewithal, given limited shop space and availability of special tools/lifts.

Thanks

Robert

Replacing the rear main seal requires removal of the transmission. That is more DIY than I ever look at, and the labor content from a shop makes the job on an older car extremely un-economical.

Solution: Keep the PCV system working at top efficiency, which is cheap and easy (flame trap and all hoses every other oil change) and switch to 20W-50 oil.

And, check the oil every morning before start-up.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Ew. 20W-50 oil is just bad for your engine. Far far too thick. I've seen quotes of about $200-$300 for a rear main on a 240. If you've got a stick, you can throw in a clutch job as well for a lot of common labor (or you can wait until oil dripping on the flywheel drives you completely nuts). Lots of other things like the 4th gear switch and od solenoid if you've got an M46. If you've got an autobox it's the perfect time for the swap.

If you don't value your car at least $300.. I suppose there's lots of other things you've let go.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

Well, since I have been using Havoline 20W-50 and Fram PH-43 filters on my 240 N/A cars since 1980, I have gotten only 250,000 miles on most engines. The 20W-50 is heavy, but in our Houston climate it's just a little over the 15W-40 in the owner's manual. And, it's not right for lower mileage B230, lower being under 175K or so.

The PH-43 filter was a recommendation from Nils Nilsson, my certified Volvo mechanic. It is the next size up from what Volvo uses, and it's a whole lot easier to get a grip on.

Just thoughts.

Bob

:>)

"...and Fram PH-43 filters on my 240 N/A cars since 1980..."

Someone here once called these the "orange kiss of death."

"The PH-43 filter was a recommendation from Nils Nilsson, my certified Volvo mechanic. It is the next size up from what Volvo uses, and it's a whole lot easier to get a grip on..."

Be careful. Aside from shoddy craftsmanship in a Fram, a longer filter will have a lower resonant frequency (much as a longer pendulam swings slower). This means that in some circumstances, at high RPM, the filter can experience sympathetic or harmonic vibration and might even fracture.

It's highly unlikely, but it's one reason that some hi-rpm and/or hi-vibration engines (some diesel, for example) use short, squat filters.

In my opinion, you CANNOT go wrong with a Mann filter. If you shop carefully, you'll get them for around $3.50 each.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Well right now, I'm running dino juice 10W-30, topped off with synthetic blend in the same weight.

When I tackle the front seals (they were leaking when I bought the car, have not gotten any worse or better with the semi-synth or dino), I've got a bunch of Mobil 1 that is going in. If you're worried about hot weather, why not use synthetic? If you're worried about oil pressure, go get the sender and gauge from a turbo and an adapter.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

I tried 20w50 to slow an oil leak before in my 83' 242 Ti, and I'd have to say it was a bad decision for my climate. Every time I looked under the filler cap there was the milky substance from the oil not reaching correct temp. I could see 20w 50 working better in a hot enviroment, but up here in the NW (WA, state), I'd say stick with 10w30, or 40 in the summer. Fixed the turbo (replaced worn center cartridge) and switched to 10w30 synthetic and under oil cap is clean as new, and leaks have stopped.

PS: Do you know if that oil filter will fit in a turbo model, the clearance is pretty tight in there?


Zack


Silver 83' 242 Ti (206k)


[news from curb incident of last november: so far i fixed the right front suspension, and replaced the right rear axle, so she's almost back on the road. Only the panhard rod and right rear caliper, + 2 wheels\tires and oil pan and i'll be there]

So Zack -

You switched to a full synthetic 10W-30 and the leaks dired up? Right? It has been my aim to get both of my daily drivers on to synthetic, but I have been hesitant as I understood that a small dino oil leak can become a very large synthetic oil leak. Your "testimony" sounds like the reverse of that.

How many miles on your brick?

My bricks are almost twins. Wifemobile is a 1988 244GL B230F having about 130K and mine is a 1986 244GL B230F with an estimated 250K (both o/ds are dead).

I have the 88 on 15W-40 and the 86 on 20W-50. I have about 1-1/2 cases of 20W-50 in Bob's Garage Volvo Parts Dept. and will be using them up first, but then it will be synthetic and 10W-30.

How are your leaks doing? Where were they?

Regards,

Bob

:>)

Well, the 20w 50 was also synthetic, and I have been running synthetic since I bought the car in 1999 with 182k miles. Fixing the PVC setup and replacing the cam, valve cover, and oil cap seals also were necessary to stop the leaks. The car still uses about 1 quart over 1000miles or so, but I think most of it has to do with turbo use, 206k miles and any small leaks I dont notice.

I ahve heard that leaks can get worse with synthetic, but I have also heard that synthetic does a good job of keeping the seals swelled up, so i guess there is a few different opinions out there. The nice thing about a synthetic with a N\A engine would be longer drain intervals. I have tried several brands, and I prefer the Amsoil 10w40, and the Castrol 10w30. I have also heard that once you choose a brand, it is best to stick with that one.

My leaks were usually turbo related (before it was replaced) or related to clogged PCV system.

Good luck,

Zack

Silver 83' 242Ti


PS: When you first switch to synthetic, it will clean out your engine pretty well, so change out the first batch at 3000miles or so. I can open my valve cover now after 20k miles use of synthetic and it looks brand new. Very minimal leftover deposits. I have to replace the oil pan soon, so I'll check to see what the inside of that looks like.