I’m getting ready to replace the rotors/pads on my wife’s 92 940 (2nd time in four years). I already received my rotors/pads from PCP Groton. It was recommended to me that I also replace my caliper pins/boots with a kit from volvo. Well, volvo wants $55 per side for their caliper pin kits. That’s an additional $110+ tacked on to my brake job costs - just too pricey for me.

Is there a way to service my original caliper pins? Do they simply need to be greased? And besides proper torque specs, is there any other way to keep my new rotors truer longer? Thanks much!

My 740's use girling calipers. Are these different than what the 940's use? Because the caliper pins and rubber boots cost $15 from fcpgroton, which does both sides.
--
Matt L. Cary, NC two '89 740 sedans

Thanks for the responses. I really appreciate it. Matt - I was told I had to buy the hardware from Volvo, so never checked the groton site until now.

http://fcpgroton.com/volvo700900brakes.htm

Would this be the ticket?
Part# HAR2213
Front Brake Hardware Kit 91-97 models w/ABS + Girling Front Calipers $11.00
FOD Made in Sweden

Thanks again.

No that's NOT it. I ordered one of those and it's something else (I have no idea what). It's in a small box and has a bunch of flimsy metal pieces and brackets, I still can't figure out what it's for, but it's definitely NOT the caliper pin kit.

You need to call him and ask specifically for the caliper pin kit... I don't think it's listed on the website.

I hope you read this before you go and order that hardware kit....



--
Matt L. Cary, NC two '89 740 sedans

You caught me. Thanks for the heads up.

This is an adventure I just recently went thru:

One pin was rusted so badly in its bore that I couldn't seperate it from the caliper bracket. Result? Had to get a new caliper bracket. Problem: very very hard to find. I think Voluparts finally had them, for like $25 each or so, loaded with pins/boots for another $10 per pin... (or per pair of pins? I forget, I was just happy to find someone who sold the stupid bracket!)

Keep those pins lubed up! Replace the boots and re-grease them every time you do the pads! ESPECIALLY if you notice uneven wear between pads!

I now have new Ate powerstop rotors in front, new stock Ate discs in back, PBR deluxe pads all around, rebuilt calipers & new brackets & pins up front. lubed up the rear pins of course. Bled with a power bleeder from www.motiveproducts.com, can't say enough about that thing!

-Paul Demeo
1990 780 (

I agree with Chris 100%. I had a torn boot, which lead to a siezed pin and much sweat in very short order. If you need to apply any kind a force, leverage, or impact to get the pins out, first be very careful you don't damage a boot, and second, plan to do a good cleanup, polish, and regreasing upon assembly.

If you need them, the pin kits are expensive but worth the money in rotor protection and good braking. If you can find boots alone, replace on principal and tell us where you got them!

Here is my personal rule of thumb:

If the slides are corroded or pitted, and have caused sliding problems or wedging of the pads, replace them.

If the boots are torn, you really don't have a choice.

But if the boots are intact, and the guide pins are clean and not corroded, clean off the pins, regrease them with high temperature brake grease, and put them back together. When you take care of the brake hardware on the 900 calipers, they will last for a long time. Water intrusion or lack of grease will require new hardware sooner.

As far as rotors go, torque is the most important thing of all. If a pad is dragging, it can warp them also.
--
Chris Herbst
1992 745, 68k

And others:
93 944, 150k
90 245, 110k
88 744, 160k
87 245, 185k