I just spent 9 hours on sunday changing the front struts, repacking the hubs,
changing out the calipers with old (new) ones that had functional bleeder screws, and replacing the rubber hoses, two per side.Changed the master cylinder as well, brand new. Now I can't get the brakes bled properly. The rears are done first, then the fronts. I gather that the 3 bleeder screws on the front calipers are all opened, and the bleeding takes place on all of them at once. Still no luck, however. The pedal is actually softer, and goes farther now than before opening the system. What is a man to do. I don't give up easily, and don't give up my money to a grease monkey, hammer mech. either.
Do I have to have a pressure bleed done by a shop?

Pete
1984 245, B23F, AW70
Girling/ate

Follow Randy Starkie's procedure, it's the correct sequence as listed in any Volvo shop manual. I just replaced all of my lines and had very similar problems. I think opening all of the screws on the front calipers at once is where you're problem is. My problem was not getting any fluid to come out of the bleeders, so I just opened them up in the proper sequence, had a friend pump the pedal until a good stream came out, topped off the master cylinder, and kept bleeding until all air was out of each one. It DOES take a while, especially if you are working with a jack and have to keep taking the wheels off, but if normal bleeding doesn't do it after going through the master cylinder and all of the lines, you may have bigger problems on you're hands. Have you checked the proportioning valve?

Erik
'83 245Ti

I would pay close attention to what Randy Starkie said (below);

Bench bleed the MC..

bleed the brake lines,

then try your brakes.

...and, please accept my apology for asking a stupid question, but you *did* install the front calipers right-side-up, didn't you? Bleed screws up, not down? It's happened before...

Rob Kuhlman

Yes, the 3rd bleeder screw was at the top, pointing in.

You need to bench bleed the new master cylinder first. If it didn't come with the proper kit to do that get one from an auto supply store. After you have the air bled from the master cylinder attach the brake lines and then the sequence is:

Left rear
Left front top
Right front top
Right rear
Right front lower two
Left front lower two

Randy

I recieved my new power bleeder in the mail on friday. I'll see how it works, and try following Randy Starkie's sequence. This sequence will also be helpful for my neighbor, who put 240 girling calipers on his BMW 2002, and can't get a good pedal. Thanks from both of us if this is it.

Pete

Are you sure the system still has air? Or is it just a low pedal?

When you change out the master cylinder, sometimes you have to adjust the actuator rod from the brake booster. But not always. This could be one of those times though.

Also, with all fresh fluid, sometimes the pedal will have a different feel, even with the correct pedal height.
--
Chris Herbst
1992 745, 68k

And others:
93 944, 150k
90 245, 110k
88 744, 160k
87 245, 185k

Try bleeding one screw at a time. Start with the one farthest away (outside) then inside, then top. I just did this today and seems to work OK so far.

Zack

Silver 83' 242Ti (206k)

Bleed LF,RF,LR,RR.