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My 83 245 turbo has gotten into a habit of dieing while i drive. It will always restart, but will die immediately unless giving it gas as soon as it starts. Its happening so often now, that I've become pretty good at slipping into neutral and restarting, then back on my way with out losing much speed. I've checked all fuses, fuel injector relay, and grounds to the fuel pump and in-tank pump. I have done a simple visual of the vacuum hoses, Is there some tests i could do to see if any are leaking? any other ideas of what to look for? are there some other ground points i should check? I had a bad harness, and repaired by soldering in some new wiring. The same problems occurred before and after. I've had the in-tank pump replaced about 6 months ago.
thanks
-Bruce
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I have a 1983 242 turbo that had the same problem last summer. I checked the same things as you have and I even replaced the relay without any success. To get to the point, all I did was clean all the connections in the fuel system wiring (including the relay). That seemed to solve the problem ... I've driven 8 months and 30 000 kms without a another stall. Good luck!
Greg
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Bruce...
Check your engine wiring harness. Look at all the exposed wires. If any insulation is off, you need a new one. You have 'the year' for this problem. Volvo used wires with low PCB insulation, which hardens and crumbles after many years of heat. If this is the case, get a replacement or rewire it yourself.
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Warren Bain - '86 744Ti M46 >290Kmi, '96 965 >100Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va..
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Also check your fuel pump fuses. They get burned after awhile due to poor contacts. Is your idle motor buzzing normally? Is your idle switch on the throttle body working? And of course vacuum leaks. Most of the small hoses will blow off under boost if they are gone. The seals around the injectors are a bad place for leakage of they have not been replaced
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The fuses are fine. What is the normal buzz on the idle motor, and where do you hear it, while in the car, or under the hood?
thanks
-Bruce
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It sounds like a case of 'resolder the fuel pump relay' syndrome. Try that first and get back to us.
This advice courtesy of Don Foster.
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Warren Bain - '86 744Ti M46 >290Kmi, '96 965 >100Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va..
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thanks for the advice, I've swapped in several different fuel pump relays from my other volvos, and the same problems keep occuring. Though, the other relays aren't new, and could well have the same problems. I've had three volvo's for a while now, I quess my rational is to have two of them working while I do fixes on the third. I quess I'm falling behind, as I now have two not working, while the third barely works. To top it off, I'm really not much of a mechanic. I have the volvo problem solver binder thats been of some help, the book has some very good advice, but it sure is poorly organized, keeps telling me that if I pass steps 1 and 2, go to step 3, and I can't even find a step 3.
thanks
-Bruce
Maybe I'll buy a fourth volvo, so I can have time to fix the other three :)
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OK, don't swap, resolder. Does the car quit on a half tank or lower, of gas? It could be a prepump problem.
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Warren Bain - '86 744Ti M46 >290Kmi, '96 965 >100Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va..
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I haven't taken note as to when the problem occurs in comparison the how much gas is in the tank. I had pre-pump problems last year, while it never died, when ever i needed power, and was low on gas, it would stutter. I had a new prepump installed (one of the heavy duty ones), and had no problems until recently. I'll open up a relay and take a look, I have a half dozen laying around. As far as the harness goes, when this problem first started occuring, I take a look at the harness, and was shocked at how bad the wiring was around both of the large gray connectors. Since both sides of each connector was bad, I took the easy way out, and cut off both connectors, Spliced in about 6 inches of new wiring, soldered and insulated using shrink tubing, then wrapped with black tape. I took my time doing it, and think i did a pretty good job. But who knows. I didn't do a thorough job of checking out the remaining parts of the harness, as the crumbling seemed to be confined to the areas around the connectors that were not covered by the black plastic covering.
thanks
-Bruce
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You can bet the insulation is shot inside the harness. I know because afgter I changed mine, I cut the plastic to look at the inside. The insulation came right off exposing bare wires.
Remove the harness and open up the plastic cover to reveal the inner wiring bundle. The high heat of the are under the intake manifold and beside the block caused this problem.
Mark each connector. Use high temp wire (insulation).
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Warren Bain - '86 744Ti M46 >290Kmi, '96 965 >100Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va..
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Bruce
Sounds simillar to what happened to me as a result of bad fuel pump relay, car drives, engine stops dead, starts again (sometimes delayed) and started happening more and more frequently till I worked it out. When you say 'fuel injector relay' do you mean fuel pump relay?? I hope it is that simple but it sounds like you may have another problem.
Good Luck
Karl
86 245
Australia
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