Hi folks. I am trying (first time) to change my motor mounts. But they instead have changed me into a raving, tool throwing lunatic! I'll tell you what I did and where I ended up. I have the car on ramps with a jack under the pan. The motor is raised and the back is against the firewall. I removed the oil filter, mounts and brackets. Installed new rubber mounts. I attached the drivers side to the block.
The passenger side will not align. The back of the motor is buried against the firewall and I still need it to raise another inch to start the bolts into the block. If I attach the drivers side first, will this cause the opposite side to pivot upward? Or would it just restrain it more? Any ideas are greatly welcome.

Thanks,
Mark

I found it easier to remove the lower mount brace (connected to subframe)

I got some help on this by jacking the engine at the side of the pan where it bolts to the block, by the "brace". (very carefully with safety blocks piled up under the pan in case the engine slipped). This tilted the engine to the side and gave more clearance. The drivers side went easy, the passenger side was the hardest.

Here is hwhat I do:

Mount the mounts on the subframe and SLOWLY lower the engine bit by bit, lining up the mounts as it goes. If you have a good hydraulic jack you can do it all at once because you can release pressure enough to lower the engine at a snail's pace. Otherwise, lower it a half-inch and then adjust the engine from the top. It's easy to bully around a little bit when it's disconnected from the car. Go slowly until they're settled evenly and bolt them up.

The driver's side is such a pleasure, isn't it?

--
Chris Herbst
1992 745, 68k

And others:
93 944, 150k
90 245, 110k
88 744, 160k
87 245, 185k

Chris,
Thanks. I can breath again and my vision is clearing! Any tips for the trans mount?

With Appreciation,
Mark

take a good look at the installation/configurtatio of the old one before you take it out, this will ensure you get the new one back in the same way. Perhaps that goes without saying, but i learned the hard way, spent an extra 30 minutes trying to figure out why the tranny didn't 'look right' anymore..had the mount in upside down.

Auto or manual?

Neither is particularly hard, actually. On some manual transmissions its' easier to actually take out the bracket it's attached to, but other times the center bolt is easier to get a grip on. Just elevate the transmission enough to get the mount out. The rest of it is pretty straightforward. Dropping the crossmember is virtually mandatory and makes it a breeze. Occasionally you have to use a pry bar to get the crossmember lined up when you go to reassemble it, since they tend to sag and get slightly out of line somehow. Just a few tips... by the time you read this you'll probably be finished already.
--
Chris Herbst
1992 745, 68k

And others:
93 944, 150k
90 245, 110k
88 744, 160k
87 245, 185k