Greetings all,

With the temp's climbing into the 90's last week, the blower motor on our most recent addition has decided to take an early vacation (on our other 3 240s they waited until June or July to depart the work environment).

In the past I've always bought the new motor and resistor from the dealer (they have tended to give a pretty price good break), but given the amount of work involved (involvoed?) in this repair, I'm more concerned with longevity. Is there a better motor out there, or all they all about the same?

Thanks in advance,

Steve A-

I've replaced or repaired six or seven of these motors in years past.

In my '86, the motor merely needed a thorough cleaning and lubing. It has been perfect for the last five years. I suspect that a new Volvo motor has the minimum required oil, and this stuff will slowly evaporate -- so if your new Volvo blower motor sat on some inventory shelf for the past 8-10 years, it might first benefit from fresh, new oil.

My daughter's '89 VW Golf needed the same thing -- squeaky motor, then bound up tight, and then a blown fuse. I washed through the bearings with solvent and then flooded them with oil. Perfect. $0.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Don,

Thanks for the tips. What kind of oil do you recommend, 3in1, Marvel Mystery, or plain old 10-30? Is there an oil reservoir that I've been over-looking, or do you just put a couple of drops where the shaft goes into the bushing? I was going to use PBlaster as a solvent per your recommendation. Is that OK, or will that eat anything up?

Thanks again for the advice.

Steve A-
3 x 83 + 91 = 700K+ miles

"3in1?"

No!

"Marvel Mystery?"

No, no!

"WD-40?"

NO, NO, NO!! (I added that just for fun.)

"...plain old 10-30?"

Maybe.

I used a lightweight motor oil -- somewhere I got a quart of this stuff. I'd say it's about 2 weight. 10-30 might be too heavy, and you really don't want the additives and viscosity stablizers in the electric motor bushings.

I'm sure you can find a decent oil at the hardware store.

Search the archives and FAQs -- someone posted a method to inject oil to the motor bushings from outside, with minimal disassembly. The real problem here is that Volvo started construction of your car by magically suspending the blower in mid-air and then building the car around it.

"Is there an oil reservoir that I've been over-looking...?"

Not really. If you disassemble the motor you'll see that the bushings are surrounded by felt thingies that hold extra oil. The bushings themselves are probably sintered -- that is, they're made of molded, pressed, and bonded metal particles, so they have microscopic pores to hold and deliver oil to the wearing surface.

"...just put a couple of drops where the shaft goes into the bushing?"

That's about it, although I think the bushing and felt thingies absorb more like a half teaspoon of oil.

Avoid over-oiling -- you don't want oil on the brushes or commutator.

"...PBlaster as a solvent..."

Sounds good. I usually use carb cleaner. Cheap, effective, not overly poisonous. Aim carefully, use sparingly.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Don,

Thanks again. I'll check with a couple places here in NN VA. Also, I wonder how "WAHL" (barber equipment specialty oil) would work. It's clear, with a little more viscosity than water . . . .

I'll check the archives and FAQs for other hints as you suggested.

I've heard the story of the blower motor being the first thing down the assembly line--and my wife mentioned it when I told her that it sounded like the motor was going south in the 91.

I hadn't heard about the "felts"--if I can figure how to get to them that should help. I used to have a pin-point oiler, but it's gone missing sometime over the last couple of years (buried under Volvo parts).

I hadn't thought of carb cleaner--probably a better cleaner than the PB, and I've got some on the shelf.

Thanks again--and by the way, v-impressive photos of the white vehicle year "label" on the fender.

Steve A-