Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Instrument panel removal 140-160 1970

Hi! I'm steadily getting to grips with my 'new' 1970 144.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the instrument panel - strip speedo type. All the dash lights worked, until I decided to 'fiddle' with the rheostat. Now I have no dash lights. I assume I just connect the two wires on the back of the rheostat (2 x white...?). The Haynes I have seems too vague on dash removal, and I don't want to break anything else! Can it be pulled forward enough leaving the speedo cable in place?

Thanks,

Kevin

ps - I posted an earlier message about my steering box/poor steering. All the ball joints seem ok after checking - is the steering box over-haulable - and what's the correct procedure for adjusting - I have very very little experience of steering boxes (but you can ask me about ECU's....!!)








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Instrument panel removal 140-160 1970

I took my instruments out (after advice from this board). A bit fiddly, but not hard. Take off the steering wheel, undo the speedo cable (vital!), pull off the wire connectors, undo the 2 nuts holding the instruments in, tip the instruments over (face down), wiggle it around so one end comes out first, and out it comes. Don't force anything, just wriggle until it comes out.

Lack of space and vision are the only problems (surprise, surprise).

JohnH








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Instrument panel removal 140-160 1970

I didn't have to take off the steering wheel, just the plastic shroud around the ignition switch and trurnsignal switch. I had the lower dash valance off already to get into heater removal. My rheostat has green corosion at the rivet on the full on end and probably at the center end too so it seems to be a lost cause. I haven't checked with Volvo for price an availability yet.

Mel








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Instrument panel removal 140-160 1970

Never had much luck with the rheostats. Twist it around all you want, maybe you'll get lucky.

But, no need to remove any portion of the dash. From underneath, remove the rheostat and replace it with a jumper of two female spade conectors and a short loop of wire. The only downside is the hole in the dash where the rheostat/knob once sat. That can either be overcome or overlooked.







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