hey guys....i'm new to this car thing and because i love working on cars( i used to with my dad, he has a 1968 122 i think thats it) and i'm going to be doing alot of the work myself
any tips on things to look out for?
i would like to know if somebody could give me a short list of parts and their responsiblility
if anyone has the time i'd be very greatfull
thanks

To add to others' coments:

go to import/Volvo-mostly car shows of local club gatherings

practice removing things & learning systems at a pcik 'n pull

Establish a priority repair/preventative maintenancce habit and stick to it, given your limited funds (everybody's in that boat!) and untested knowledge and abilities.

for my last two Volvo acquisitions:

1984 244GL, 202K miles, crashed and sitting in a junkyard

1986 245DL, 185K miles, uncared-for, rotted floors, and sitting 6+ months in a field

my priorities were/are:

1. Do the very things it requires to make it safe and pass inspection,

2. Bring it mechanically into repair such that it can be put onto scheduled maintenance mode (as opposed to always needing to fix it)

3. Make it pretty, accessorize, add mods.

Note: Be RUTHLESS in sticking with this priority order, that is, don't move on to #2 before completing EVERYTHING in #1, for example.

Note #2: If your have to work through some item in #2 category on your way to a sfatey/inspection item, by all means, repair that ENTIRE SYSTEM at that time as funds, time, ability permit. If you need a tie rod end to pass inspection, for example, do both sides, but also consider updating the entire front steering system at this time: inner tie rods, boots, ball joints, maybe struts.

It'll need a front end alignment anyway. No sense replacing one or both tie rod ends, only to need rubber boots (AND another alignment) six months later.

Beleive me, you'll have many of those "do I do it now, or let it go?" decisions.

Create a budget and, maybe, a new income stream to help pay for your new habit.

A conservative cash need is $750 a year for annual maintenance, including scheduled PM stuff, like oil changes, tire change-overs, etc. PLUS some unforseen or "bad luck" repair job.

Note #3: Try, try again to fix a part, rather than buy a replacement. If you must replace, buy a used part, preferably one you pick 'n pull yourself (for the sake of developing knowledge and experience). Anybody can throw money at a car and have a nice ride (attend ANY "rice-burner" meet). What do you do if you don't have money? It is amazing to me how many parts on these cars can be fixed, before replacing. (when it came to the point of my taking apart faulty door switches, I began doubting my "time versus money" judgement. But it demonstrates just how for one can go in "making do")

Keep it Rolling!

Farewell,

Zee

from http://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.asp which is the Volvocars NA Bookstore. At minimum get the Wiring Diagrams Manual (WDM) for your year. It'll be pricey but invaluable and has info not in other books.

If possible, get the Specifications and the Owner's Manual for your car, too. The 1986 is a bit of a transition year, with the first B230F in the 1985, but the body chenges and a few other changes coming in the 1986 model.

There are nice looking badges for high mileage club. 100K, 200, 300, 500, etc.
When you are ready, post and ask for the URL, I can't recall it just now.

Join the VCOA and help support this board, too.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

I just bought my 19 year old nephew an "Auto Repair for Dummies" book for his birthday.(Although it was somewhat a "gag gift", it really is pretty informative) Nothing Volvo-specific, but lots of good general information on how cars work.


Good Luck

Look in the archives for How to Buy a Used 240. There is alot of good info there. Watch Ebay for critcal parts that you know you'll eventually need. Water pump,thermostadt,plug wires,tie-rod end,balljoints etc.. Get to know what importers have the best prices. They advertise on the BBoard. FPC Groton, andy@importpartsspec.com, that will also give you a good idea on how much to bid on an auction item. IPD (www.ipduas.com) has a few items you may want. Get on their mailing list. A Robert Bentley manual is a must in my opinion. Check Ebay or IPD for that item. It seems the most expensive items are the ones you need NOW. Go to the pick-a-part yards and get spare Air Mass Meter, Trans solenoid,(auto) OD relay,as well as little clips, fasteners and trim pieces. Ask questions. That's what we are all here for. Go for Bosch over Borg Warner,and Bougicord over Bullshi^%$^! Sometimes you'll get too much information. A DL will never be a dragster. Don't get caught up in the "rice rocket" mentality. Well I better shut up before I step on any toes. Your driving THE BEST! Enjoy!

Mark

Dylan:

Congrats on your 240 acquisition. I don't have a list, but one important part that should be checked about every other oil change is the flame trap and all of its related hoses and fittings. It's a metal or plastic screen that can build up with carbon deposits, and causes positive pressure to build up in the crankcase. This can cause oil leaks from otherwise good seals. I never knew what a flame trap was until I owned Volvos, so I thought you might benefit from a little advance warning.

The trap is located inside a "Y" fitting. There will be a junction where a 1" hose meets the plastic fitting, then splits to two smaller hoses. It's usually located between intake runners 3 and 4. Disassemble these pieces by hand, remove the plastic or metal screen, and either clean it (sometimes I spray WD40 through it) or replace it if it's really gunked up. Also, follow the smaller vacuum hose to its brass nipple on the intake manifold. Be sure the hose and the nipple are clear. You can remove the nipple with a metric wrench (about 9mm, I think), and clear out the carbon with a small drill bit or similar object.

There's a better description in the 700/900 FAQ section. You can gain a LOT of knowledge there (Thanks again, Steve!), because many of the engine and trans parts are the same between the 4-cylinder 2, 7, and 9 series.

Best of luck as you learn. This board will be invaluable to you.
--
Guid ('88 244DL 213k, '89 744T 167k, '92 745 163k)

First, check the brake system: calipers (tend to have frozen pistons), pads and rotors (wear out), brake fluid (brownwish)flush with Dot 4 brake fluid.

A nice tune-up: new air filter (K&N is quite popular), spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter.

Make sure you check the air cleaner box thermostat (I bet it's dead, and the engine is sucking heated air all the time, which is bad).

Replace the timing belt and tensioner.

Transmission fluid (brownish and smoking smell) flush. Engine coolant flush.

Regular oil and filter change every 3,000 miles.

Then, sit back and enjoy the ride till you're 27, 37......