have i got some bad news about my turbo

while working to solve an exhaust leak (which my father and i hoped to be just some bad gaskets which we think it was they were burnt and broken) we removed the exhaust manifold and turbo unit from the rest of the engine but not without a struggle then we put on the new gaskets put the manifold back on started tightening the nuts back up

got them all on and my dad goes to check them and the last one "eeerrrr pop!!" the stud broke in half almost, leaving part of the stud still in the engine

so of course it had to be the last one to break or otherwise i would be driving my good old turbo brick

but how hard is it to fix? i know you have to drill it out but is there anything i should know before hand?
plus it is the one closest to the firewall on the top and there seems to be enough space to get a drill in without taking too much apart

what do you guys think?

thanks for any info and help it is much appreciated

matt
2-240 turbo and dl
3-850 turbo and 2 n/a
1-164E project car

See the 700/900 FAQ under "exhaust" for many tips on this very problem.

Buy yourself a can of "PB Blaster" at your Chain type Auto plarts dealer......I'm a Coal mine Electician/Mechanic and the Blaster is the best penetrant for rusted broken studs.......Try to put a centerpunch mark on the stud in the center before drilling .Take your time........Did it break off flush? IF any of the stud is sticking out you can lay a nut over it and weld it on then screw it out......IF you cant find "PB Blaster"....."Kroil" or "Liquid Wrench" are the next best two......IMHO..........Good Luck ........Bob

Well, and easy-out, lots of wd-40 and you could get it out. If you can still remove the manifold with it in there, just pull it back off. I know it sounds like a pain in the as* but it will make it much easier to rethread the head.

If it makes you feel better i snapped a Main Cap on a crank on a 455 pontiac race motor, now theres a pop you don't want to hear.
--
2001 S60 2.4t~82 242 Turbo 5spd~87 244 (nothing special)

No Easy-out and no WD-40.

WD-40 is a "water displacer" and is good for removing tar, starting the charcoal grill, and squeaky cupboard doors. NOTHING MORE. It can barely penetrate a dry paper bag.

Easy-outs are hard and brittle and snap. You'll need to buy diamond bits from Paul S. to grind the broken easy-out. Unless the broken stud is new, I'm afraid you're faced with a rusted-in stud and a drill-'n-tap project.

I faced this in my '82 turbo when I bought it. After removing the turbo, manifold, and pipe, I unbolted the right engine mount and tipped and blocked the engine as far as it would go to the left. I was able to drill the broken stud with a 90-degree adapter on my drill and a SHORT bit. Then I re-tapped to the next larger stud size.

I didn't need to remove the head.

But if you snap the easy-out, you'll be yanking the head and running to the machine shop.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)