Hi!....my drivers side manual window doesn't go all the way up....seems like at about a half inch from the top, the teeth are slipping......window also rocks fore and aft..(related?)......anyone seen this before .....any fixes for this or does it look like time to change out the regulator???......does the rear regulator work in the front door?????......TIA...j.
Also, seems that after the last trip to boston, what i thought were bullet hole decals on my drivers side door, weren't.
Just kidding....it was oklahoma......j.

VT John

Take the regulator out [dry weather- window goes also], make a template of the gears onpaper. Measure thickness of reg. at missing teeth and get an idea of a hole size to drill 3/32 to 5/64 worked for me. Even-off the bad teeth with a small hand file- go shopping...
In True Value hardware find the correct size tension-pins [short ones], and a tube of "PC.7 Heavy-Duty multi-purpose epoxy about $8.

Basically you drill a hole [for each tooth] straight down into the regulator so you can 'press' the pins into place leaving enough pin exposed to make each missing tooth/teeth. Like a Dentist makes a "post for a crown". Then tape the area into a laying it on it's side and mix the PC.7 really well and fill the boat with this gray/black epoxy.
In 24hours you can remove the boat and razorcut the excess material within 75% of what will be the finished product. BUT leave alot of epoxy on the teeth at this phase. Let the epoxy cure for about 3-4 days, then with a small-hobby hand file, shape the epoxy to match your paper template... Finally,,, flat sand the sides to make a thin product which will 'just slide-thru' the gear slot. Obviously clean all of the epoxy off of the reg. other than the 'new gears'.

This PC.7 stuff should file like metal at this stage... But if it acts soft at a 1:1 ratio mix just wait the full 4-days. You have got to mix this stuff very well.

You should have a nice smooth regulator for your reinstall.
I fixed a manual and a power reg, in two of my Volvo's driver doors --This way.

Now the reason why it happened! The window top right corner [from the inside] does not align within the felt track. You need to get both the reg "full-up position" locked-in properly and then <<>. Actually, I just use my finger to push the window out into the felt.
Also a problem, if the window was broken, small frags of glass can get trapped in-under the felt strip. this acts like a brake making the force to close strip the gears.

DBurge

Sounds like a great fix......now...have to get a round tuit...thanks...j.

Yep. Had that problem on my old POS rustbucket winter beater bomber '82. The last few teeth on the regulator were worn down. I tacked 'em with a welder and reshaped the "repaired" teeth, and it lasted about a year -- and then I had to install another regulator.

I think I got the regulator for $0 plus tax from wreck. I do not know if front 'n rear regulators are the same -- but I'd bet that they're all unique.

"...seems that after the last trip to boston, what i thought were bullet hole decals on my drivers side door, weren't..."

Musta been Roxbury, Dorchester, or Mattapan...
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

If it slips (like teeth skipping) you may need a new window regulator. It's not that hard to change and you should be able to find a good used one at the junk yard.

Just did this on my 86. The mechanism is held to the door with 4 nuts. These need to be tightened after you loosen and adjust the window to fit snuggly.
15 min. fix and no more wind noise.
good pluck.

It sounds like your window tracks have spread, you can pull the panel and look. It is somewhat adjustable.