some of you may have seen the car that was listed on cars.com for $400 that had 68k miles....well i am the new owner. im just starting out with 240's again. I have an 83 240 turbo wagon and now the 84 244 turbo. The 84 has not been running for 3 years. It was diagnosed with a faulty harness and the guy that had it couldnt figure it out. so it has a brand new wiring harness thats not hooked up correctly. however i dont have the volvo diagram and i cant follow the old one cause its not correct. can anyone help me here? also since its been sitting for 3 years, what should i replace and change? the car is in ok shape, needs paint job, and has a dirty interior however no rust at all. the engine bay looks very lean with the usual rust...please help me out, im looking to fix this one up and keep her from becoming a parts car.
Also, the car turns over when you try to start it, but it wont fully crank. Could this be from a wiring harness thats not completely hooked up? also when the key is out of the ignition the power sunroof still works. I think this is draining the battery because it dies after 2 days. Any help is greatly appriciated. If you have a harness diagram you can email it to brandon@atlantacycling.com
Thanks....

I'm the new owner of a 82' 245 dl that had sat for a while. My vehicle had been started a few times so the extent of the lay off might not have been as significant as yours. I expected to put five hundred dollars into the vehicle. This has proven to be true. All the normal tune up items are required. Someone else's comment about the gas tank cleaning made sense to me. I've noticed the need to be ever vigilant in regards to corrossion, wherever there are electrical connections. I would guess that the project will require time and money ($700-1000 worth?) but hopefully you will get a sound running vehicle out of it. Good Luck.

I'm the new owner of a 82' 245 dl that had sat for a while. My vehicle had been started a few times so the extent of the lay off might not have been as significant as yours. I expected to put five hundred dollars into the vehicle. This has proven to be true. All the normal tune up items are required. Someone else's comment about the gas tank cleaning made sense to me. I've noticed the need to be ever vigilant in regards to corrossion, wherever there are electrical connections. I would guess that the project will require time and money ($700-1000 worth?) but hopefully you will get a sound running vehicle out of it. Good Luck.

Hi Brandon

Check and replace if needed all the rubber hoses eg heater,radiator brake hoses the intank hose and the injector seals.idle adjustment screw seal and any other seal in the engine,gearbox and diff and new tyres and change all fluids. For a car that has been sitting that long I would replace or rebuild all these things after all it only takes one small part for the car to brakedown and leave you stranded on the side of the road

George

Cars I own
Personal import 1974 144gl B20a M40
1975 264gl B27E with a M51 getreg box
1982 244gl B23E/M45 everyday car

Brandon -

You will be VERY well-served to have the Volvo Service Manual Wiring Diagrams for that car. Go to http://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.asp and see if they are available. Of all the Volvo "Green" manuals I have, the WDM gets the most use. The schematics are what Haynes and Bentley copy, the pictorials of all the sub-systems are not available elsewhere.

Before trying the "sitter" again you should pull the plugs and squirt some engine oil into each cylinder. Otherwise seizing is possible.

There are many things to do on a car that's sat for years. Gas can turn into more of a jelly, and fuel pumps can fry trying to pump it. The tank can be drained. Brakes tend to develop rust inside the wheel cylinders. Minimum is to do a super-bleed full flush until the new DOT 4 fluid comes out the nipples.

You might pull the front seats and all the carpet and padding. See if there's any rust, check the condition of the seat padding and mechanism, and see what sort of creatures have taken up residence in there.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

The simple way to find a drain on the battery is to hook up a voltmeter or test light between the battery positive post and the positive cable. If it is draining on any circuit, the meter will show a voltage drop (either digitally decreasing numer, or the analog needle will move, maybe even "beat" or pulse. If using a test light, it will be lit.)

With the meter or test light in place, begin one by one removing the fuses. When you reach the circuit on which the appliance is draining, the mtere or light will cease to rear voltage.

Now just detect cwhich item on that circuit is the culprit.

Typically it is a lamp, such as the glove box or a dome light. In my case, it was a faulty clock.

Start with that kind of circuit.

As for the slow cranking, clean the cables at the starter and the engine ground which lead off the batttery. Corosion after three years may e preventing a charged battery from getting its juice to the starter, or resisting electrical pressure.

I have the same thing going on right now on my '84 Olds Custom Cruiser Wagon. I think a valve cover oil leak above the starter has affected the electrical connection.

Brandon-
Almost bought that myself but I've got volvo 'overload'.
I live right down the street - send me an e-mail.
PK