Bricksters:
I am replacing the inner tie rod ends and boots on the CAM Gear steering rack from my 93 245. Would it be easier to do these while the rack is on the car or to take the rack completely off and do the switch on a workbench?
Does anybody know about the "peening" of the flange in the innermost part of the rack? What to use to undo the peening and remove the inner tie rod?
Thanks for the help.
el Raidman.

Do 'em on the car.... Easy job. I've done a bunch this way. In fact, I save good tie rods from junkers just to keep my junkers running....:-)

You can straighten the peened-over section using a small chisel and small hammer. When I've replaced tie rods, I use a pipe wrench on the tie rod inner end. Sounds crude, is crude, it works. Likewise for tightening the new one. I allow the rack to float -- don't grab it -- and simply loosen/tighten the tie rod end against it. The rack doesn't turn much.

The "flange" is actually a large lockwasher. It has a hole with an internal tab, almost like a "D" hole. The tab fits into a groove in the threaded shaft, and then you peen the outer edge into a recess in the tierod end and/or rack end. (I think the Cam and ZF racks are similar but different in this regard.) This locks everything together.

If the tab has sheared from the hole, you should buy a replacement washer at the dealer. Be sure to install this washer and peen over the edge once you're satisfied with the installation.

Inspect the boots carefully. A rip will admit water 'n crud, ruining your new tie rod.

This is a good time to replace outer tie rods ends and ball joints. When you're finished, consider an alignment.

I have done this job just as Don has described on my 83 245, I also used Don's suggestion for ball joint removal, which is to use a hammer rather than a splitter and it worked without any trouble. I used used parts for this job and got over 2 years of service with no troubles. I counted turns and made only minor adjustments and no alignment - tires wore evenly - I got lucky. It is an easy shadetree job.

Leave it on the car. Tie rods are easy to replace, I used a large adjustable wrench (they thread on and off). Remove the outer tie rod end nut, tap it through with a hammer, then remove the inner tie rod.
--
Zack Silver 83' 242Ti (208k)

I'm speaking in general tie-rod removal terms; I don't think I have ever done a Volvo. So, my advice may not be on the mark, but here goes:

Usually tie rods are taken off by using a special tool. It is more or less a massive deep well socket with interchangeable "socket" ends. Once you get the right size "socket" (it's more like a crow foot wrench) you just slip the massive deep-well socket over the whole tie rod, and hit it with a breaker bar (or impact wrench if you don't care about the tool)

You can buy such tools for $50ish or so. You can usually rent such a beast from Pep Boys or your local auto-parts-we-rent-tools-too store.

-Steve