Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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1969 144S 140-160 1969

I wanted to get your opinion on a car I'm thinking of buying.
It's a 1969 144S with 305k miles, 4 speed manual, B20 engine.
The head gasket was replaced 2 years ago, the water pump last week.
Rust is present in some places on the top of the car (3 areas about 2 cm each). There's a rust spot with a hole about 1 cm x 1 cm behind the driver's seat in the left rear passenger's seat. The air cleaner and oil are dirty. The shocks seem ok. The clutch has a little trouble going into second gear, though it may be my problem with getting used to this car. The knobs (lights, clutch, and wiper) are loose. The seller wants $1200. My questions are: what's a fair price; is this car worth purchasing? Thanks in advance.
menaster@yahoo.com








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1969 144S 140-160 1969

I purchased my 70' for about $1,000, it has no rust, but I had it painted because it was dull. About 155K, doesn't burn any oil (but it leaks).

Problem areas in these cars include interior (most are worn out), suspension bushings (does it squeek a lot while driving?), carb problems (what was the last time the SU's or whatever were rebuilt?), and leaks. Rust is a problem with any car of this vintage, but these cars don't rust as bad as most.









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1969 144S 140-160 1969

In addition to what's already been posted,

Rust is like cancer: left untreated, which apparently is the case in the car you describe, it can become a systemic problem that leads to demise. Unfortunately, the 140 series is underappreciated at the moment, so if you buy it and you do have even moderate rust problems to remedy, you can easily end up with an overrestored example. That's fine as long as you burn with a passion for the model you've sunk the time/money into. I'd get it up on a lift and go over it carefully. It also sounds like the current owner isn't meticulous about engine and clutch maintenance. Neither is a good sign.

For reference, I have a '69 144s, 88K original miles, B20, M40, zero rust, no dash cracks, all original except the radio and carbs, needing only some work on the seats. I doubt anyone would offer $4K for it if I were to put it on the market.

Good luck








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1969 144S 140-160 1969


Well sheeoot.

I've got a 68 144 that's in better shape. I'm in
the middle of replacing the motor, but otherwise the
body is in good shape, it is almost 100% unmolested
and stock, and almost rust free. Everything works
(besides the fact that the motor isn't completely
installed at the moment) like the blower fan, lights,
gauges, etc. The car has about 150k miles and I
believe that to be about correct. It's an original
california car with california black and yellow
plates. If you take it away as is, $1000 and if you
make me finish the work, $1800. I don't really want
to sell it but I've got too many volvos. It's got
an M40 and I've got an M41 of unknown condition I'd
throw in if you want. It's also got pretty new kyb
shocks, decent ball joints / tie rods, etc. The
transmission worked perfectly and was quiet. The
clutch is recently replaced but with a used unit (from
when the motor was in the beater 122)

(if you are wondering, the original motor broke a
valve spring in addition to having poor dry compression
in all cylinders. I replaced it with a motor from a
67 122 that was running well but was very rusty and
tired.)

I drove the 144 for about a year before it blew the
valve spring. I also had a 164 and just never got
around to fixing the 144 even though I really liked it.
chris








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1969 144S, Attn: Chris 140-160 1969

Chris, please contact me off list: menaster@yahoo.com
Thanks








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1969 144S 140-160 1969

Where is this car?
How does it handle?
How it its power?
How many miles on it?
What kind of carbs does it have?
Tranny? Overdrive?
Rusty floorpans? Fenderwells/ Spare tire wells?
All these things will affect its value.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma







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